World Top Journeys

San Diego Scenic Drive

2012-02-27T23:25:00.000Z

This beautiful city in Southern California is just across the border from Tijuana, holiday destination of many-a-million Americans. But as they hurry across the border they are missing something, because San Diego is a major destination in its own right. To make full appreciation of this laid-back place easy for visitors, the 95 km (59 mi) San Diego Scenic Drive guides them around the city. It is clearly marked with blue-and-yellow signs, illustrated with a bold white seagull.
A good starting point is on Harbor Drive at the foot of Broadway, on the Embarcadero (waterfront).

Follow the signs carefully and no important sights or outstanding attractions will be missed. Amongst too many to list individually, high points along the way include Harbor Island (wonderful views of San Diego Bay), Spanish Landing, Point Lorna (historic lighthouse), Cabrillo National Monument (commemorates the first European visitor, Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, in 1542), Sunset Cliffs, Ocean Beach, Mission Bay Aquatic Park (endless beaches), Soledad Mountain Park (best view in town), the University of California and Salk Institute, La Jolla Cove and Cave, Pacific Beach, Mission Beach, Sports Arena, Old Town State Historic Park (former Hispanic town centre), Hillcrest, Balboa Park (museum and cultural focus), the financial district, Seaport Village (a trendy shopping complex) and back to the starting point.

That's not quite it - the route continues on to the historic heart of San Diego, the Gaslamp Quarter - once the home of opium dens, gambling halls and saloons, now a vibrant entertainment district. If you're not sidetracked there, continue to the end of the San Diego Scenic Drive in the ultra-modern Horto Plaza, where you can spend the rest of the day shopping and dining ... a fitting end to a rewarding day spent exploring this beguiling Californian city.

HOW
By car

WHEN TO GO
Any time

TIME IT TAKES
A relaxed stop-and-go day

HIGHLIGHTS
One of the world's best collections of historic ships at the Maritime Museum of San Diego, and the nearby aircraft carrier USS Midway, now a floating museum.
The SeaWorld Adventure Park - everything from performing orcas and sealions to a variety of thrill rides.
Balboa Park, largest urban cultural park in North America, complete with Spanish revival buildings dating from the Expositions of 1915 and 1935 - find 15 museums, the Old Globe Theatre complex and lush gardens.
Also in Balboa Park - the world famous San Diego Zoo and Wild Animal Park.

YOU SHOULD KNOW
Be prepared to say 'Hello sailor' - San Diego is the traditional home base of the US Navy's mighty Pacific Fleet.
Hotels in San Diego

Rome to Catania by train

2012-02-27T11:00:00.000Z

You may well puzzle over the idea of a train running all the way from Rome, in mainland Italy, to Catania in Sicily, but this is a rare journey where the train boards a ship to cross the sea. It may be faster to fly, but you would miss watching the landscape changing from a European aspect to a harsher, almost North African one as it slips by. Leaving Rome's main station in the morning. the suburbs finally give way to plots of well cultivated land interspersed with small houses, many only half-built, multi-coloured washing flapping on lines in the sunshine. Yellow and white flowers brighten the fields and the trees begin to appear smaller and more gnarled.

After drawing into Naples, its shabby, colourful tenements strung with washing, the line turns to run parallel to the coast. You'll catch a glimpse of the island of Capri and the Sorrentine peninsula, and soon the landscape becomes one of bare, rocky hills, abandoned villages, with an occasional sprinkling of modern houses. The beach too, looks somewhat abandoned: with few people and just the odd fishing boat out to sea. Finally the train pulls into Villa San Giovanni, where the carriages, uncoupled, are rolled onto the ferry, and taken across the Straits of Messina, where they are rolled back onto tracks and re-assembled.

During the crossing, passengers either stay in their compartments or climb the stairs to the deck, where they can relish the sight of Sicily and Messina gradually drawing closer. The journey down Sicily's eastern coast takes you past citrus groves, crumbling castles, prickly pears and cactus. You even get a good enough look at Taormina to want to visit it properly, as well as passing the imposing mass of Mount Etna, before eventually arriving at Catania, the island's second city and seaport.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

All year round. but April to November is probably best.

TIME IT TAKES

Ten to thirteen hours, depending on Italian Railways

HIGHLIGHTS

The journey itself - having the time to realize you are travelling and watching southern Italy pass by.

The Vatican City and St Peter's.

Rome's famous ruins, such as the Colosseum, the Forum and the Catacombs.

Exploring Mount Etna.

Catania - the two markets in the historic centre.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Straits of Messina were described in Homer's Odyssey as one of the most treacherous passages on earth, guarded by sirens who tempted sailors to their deaths with songs. Ships had to pass between two monsters, Scylla, who plucked sailors from their ships and ate them alive, and Charybdis, who sucked entire ships into the whirlpool it created.

Hotels in Rome and Catania

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

2012-01-23T00:55:00.001Z

If someone said 'I'm off for a stroll from St Dogmaels to Amroth' few people would know what they were talking about - but those who love wild, unspoiled coastline should find out fast. For those places are at opposite ends of one of Britain's best long-distance walks, the 299 km (186 mi) Pembrokeshire Coast Path in West Wales. This splendid National Trail is not only a satisfying walk amidst the rugged beauty of an extraordinary coast, but also a hike through history.

For much of the wilder northern section the Path keeps to cliff tops, giving marvellous views of beaches, cliffs and offshore islands, plus abundant seabird life. In spring, there is the added bonus of colourful wildflowers. The section from St Dogmaels to St Davids includes the rocky bay of Witches Cauldron, Whitesands Bay (from where St Patrick set sail for Ireland), the Norman castle at historic Newport, the old harbour at Lower Fishguard and Porthclais (where St David was baptized).

The middle section to Milford Haven follows the sweeping St Brides Bay that has beautiful beaches, picturesque villages, Marloes Sands with extraordinary multi-coloured cliffs, a little chapel at St Ann's Head and the imposing Victorian fort at Dale Haven. The southern section is gentler, passing along the shores of Milford Haven's great natural harbour (teeming with birdlife) before reaching some of the finest beaches in Wales - Freshwater West, Broad Haven South, Barafundle Bay and Freshwater East. There's also plenty of commanding cliff scenery, especially numerous stacks and arches on the Castlemartin Peninsula. There is plenty of heritage to enjoy, too, inducting Pembroke Castle and the village of Angle with its wonderful old church, Fisherman's Chapel, dovecote and medieval tower-house. Coastal Path ends at Amroth.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

All year (but winter months are reserved for the hardy!).

TIME IT TAKES

Around two weeks for the complete journey

HIGHLIGHTS

One of the finest Neolithic dolmens (burial chambers) in Wales - Carreg Sampson near the village of Mathry.

The glorious medieval Cathedral and Bishop's Palace at enchanting St Davids - Britain's (and surely the world's) smallest city.

Delightful. unspoiled fishing villages - there are plenty to choose from along the Coast Path, but Solva and Little Haven are two of the prettiest.

The great Norman castle of Manorbier and the Church of St James, in a stunning location near Tenby.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The last invaders to set foot on British soil were French troops in 1797, who landed at Fishguard Bay but surrendered after two days of drunken looting.

Hotels in Pembrokeshire

The East Coast Route

2012-01-23T00:52:00.004Z

Denmark ranks as one of the most bicycle friendly countries in the world. The Danes simply love cycling and anyone of their eleven National Cycle Routes provides the lover of two wheels with an exciting and memorable holiday, At 650 km (406 mi), the East Coast Route is the longest and most spectacular of the lot. Stretching from Skagen to Sonderborg, the route meanders through pretty Danish countryside, taking the rider along fjords, round bays and peninsulas.

The towns that line the route are rich in tradition and culture. Charming fishing villages are to be found along the northern section, while to the south grand castles and sumptuous manor houses grace the rolling landscape. You will always be cycling within easy reach of the sea and the many secluded coves along the way give you good reason to stop and take a dip.

Of all the towns along the route, Arhus must be singled out for special mention. Nowhere in Denmark will you find a greater concentration of artists, museums, musicians and historically significant sites. Denmark's graceful and welcoming second city is a perfect place to make a break in your journey and, having explored it, you will probably want to stay for a day or two. When you make this journey, you will realize how perfectly designed it is for cyclists. The towns that line the route are remarkably evenly spaced, so as the legs begin to tire, there is always something to stimulate the mind or satisfy the stomach.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

Year round

TIME IT TAKES

It makes for a good week's holiday.

HIGHLIGHTS

Grenen Museum of Art in Skagen.

Koldinghus - a beautifully restored castle.

Moesgard Forhistoriske Museum - a museum of the people, near Arhus.

Sonderborg Castle overlooking the dramatic Flensborg Fjord.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Over 90 per cent of the route is asphalted. making cycling easy and fun. The route should present no problems for a reasonably fit cyclist with a good set of brakes.

Hotels in Arhus

The Ring of Kerry

2012-01-23T00:49:00.005Z

The Ring of Kerry is the jewel in the crown of Irish tourism; it is easy to see why visitors return time and again to this 178 km (112-mi) circuit of the Iveragh Pertinsula. This is a wild and out-of-the-way region, sparsely populated inland but lined with quaint little towns along the coast. Superb scenery bombards the senses at every turn; rugged mountains, perfectly sculpted by the last ice age 10000 years ago, frame 120 km (75 mi) of unspoilt beaches. Several operators offer coach tours, but for those wanting greater flexibility, travelling by bicycle or car is the best option.

Starting from Killarney, with the wonderfully named Mcgillycuddy's Reeks (Ireland's highest point) to your left, the first port of call is Killorglin, a town where time has stood still. Replete with traditional Irish fare, it is an excellent place to stock up or simply relax and have a meal. From here on the views get even more spectacular and the road between Glenbeigh and Kells offers the most magnificent coastal scenery. The area is brimming with history and if you can take your eyes off the natural spectacle, the Ring of Kerry provides fascinating glimpses of the ancient heritage of Ireland - Iron Age forts, Ogham Stones and monasteries abound.

The route then hugs the coastal road, offering several chances to cross to the Skellig Islands, a paradise for birdwatchers. The loop takes you through the charming towns of Waterville, Caherdaniel and Castlecove, all of which are worthy of exploration and, if you time it right, the sunsets over the Atlantic can be sensational. The final stretch runs along the Kenmare River until finally, with the water behind you, the road passes through the wooded Killarney National Park, full of rivers, waterfalls, lakes and wildlife.

HOW

By bike or car

WHEN TO GO

Year round

TIME IT TAKES

It can be done inside a day, but the longer you take the more you see. It is worthy of a least a week of anybody's time.

HIGHLIGHTS

Killorglin - home of the pagan Puck Fair.

The beach at Waterville.

Caherdaniel - Derrynane Estate home of Daniel O'Connell.

The 2500 year-old Staigue Fort.

Picture-postcard-pretty Kenmare.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Ring can get monstrously busy in high season (June to August). Just before and just after these times it is quieter and more rewarding.

Hotels in Kerry

Wild Waters Hike to the Reisach Waterfall

2012-01-23T00:47:00.003Z

Squeezed between the glaciated peaks of the Hohe Tauem and the limestone spires of the Dachstein, the landscape of the Niedere Tauern is a gorgeous district of lakes and tams set in rounded mountains and plateaux veined with rivers and streams, reminiscent of Scotland. The Hochgolling, a great stone giant of a mountain, just out at the end of the range at a height of 2863 m (9390 ft), towering over the mountains around the old Styrian mining town of Schladming in the Upper Enns Valley.

Better known as a cross-country ski resort, Schladming is also a great place to come in the surruner. Surrounded by nature reserves, it is superb walking country - pastoral mountain scenery of rivers, pastures and woods with tumbling streams and a network of over 500 km (300 mi) of hiking trails. The 12 km (7.5 mi) Wild Waters Trail leads from the town up through the steep Untertal valley, passing a quaint old mill and through a nature reserve, alongside a river that flows in intermittent bursts of rippling cascades. It is fed by two creeks: the Steinriesenbach, from the direction of Hockgolling, and the Reisachbach.

Following the course of the Reisachbach, the valley gets ever steeper and narrower until you reach the Reisach, the longest waterfall in Styria - a violent avalanche of water that pounds down through a cleft in the rocks and drops a distance of 140 m (460 ft) over two steps. After watching this dramatic spectacle, it is worth summoning the energy to continue climbing. Carry on up the steps of Holl, a steep mountain path, and across a perilous suspension bridge to the Reisachsee, a tranquil alpine lake where you can sit and relax, admiring the silver peaks of the Dachstein Mountains in the distance.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

May to June - to see the waterfall at its most dramatic.

TIME IT TAKES

Four to five hours

HIGHLIGHTS

Hochgolling Mountain.

Views of the Dachstein Mountains.

Holl Suspension Bridge.

Reisachsee - alpine lake.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

This is quite a strenuous but not too difficult walk for anybody reasonably fit, including children.

Hotels in Dachstein

Pacific Crest Trail

2012-01-21T21:37:00.005Z

Also known as the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail or simply PCT, this long-distance hiking route is only for the super-fit (and mightily determined!), although some make the going easier by taking to the saddle. The Trail stretches from the Mexican border up into Canada, a distance of 4240 km (2650 mi), following the high country of the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range, inland from and parallel to the USA's West Coast. The highest point is Forester Pass in the Sierra Nevada at 4000 m (13150 ft), the low point is sea level at the Columbia River on the Oregon Washington borders.

The PCT mostly crosses forests and protected wilderness, avoiding civilization and even roads wherever possible, ensuring that the intrepid hiker sees and enjoys America's wild grandeur at its pristine best. Those who just wish to experience a section of this rugged Trail- or don't have time for more - often opt for the northern section in Washington, which has much to offer. Start at the Bridge of the Gods across the Columbia River; from there on it's uphill most of the way, as the Trail goes through National Forests, skirts Mount Adams and crosses a vast wilderness area.

From there, it enters Mount Rainier National Park, and then continues via Chinook, Snoqualmie and Stevens Passes into the Lake Chelan National Recreational Area and North Cascades National Park. If you get there you've missed Stehekin, the last town near the Trail, and must cross into Canada where the PCT ends in British Columbia's EC Manning Provincial Park. Oh, when you finally rest those blistered feet after hiking the Pacific Crest Trail from start to finish, take a short break then go for the USAs Triple Crown of long-distance hiking - the Appalachian and Continental Divide Trails await!

HOW

On foot or by bike

WHEN TO GO

The Trail (starting at the Mexican border) is best between March and September.

TIME IT TAKES

To hike the entire trail without pause you should allow between four and six months.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Ansell Adams Wilderness in California's Sierra Nevada, named after the famous 20th century landscape photographer who was inspired by these mountains.

Yosemite National park, a World Heritage Site that covers a large area on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain.

Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, the most notable feature of which is the eponymous Crater Lake, a volcanic caldera lake famous for its deep-blue colour.

A civilized stop-off at Timberline Lodge, built within Oregon's Mount Hood National Forest as a work-generation project in the Great Depression, now a National Historic Landmark and popular tourist destination.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

It really can be done - some 300 so-called 'thru hikers' start out along the PCT each spring, and around 200 make it all the way.

Frasier Discovery Route on the Rocky Mountaineer

2012-01-19T12:55:00.002Z

If you could design your own railway journey, it would probably look something like this one. Opened in 2006, this latest addition to the Rocky Mountaineer experience offers the best service and the most spectacular scenery Canada has to offer. It even has the added benefit of stopping overnight so that you can get a good sleep and miss nothing that the Rockies have to offer.

Leaving the hustle and bustle of the ski resort of Whistler behind you and with a glass of champagne in hand, you travel eastbound through the rich farmland of the Pemberton Valley. It is time now to climb the stairs to the domed observation car as the train wends its way along the shores of Anderson and Seton Lakes, which are framed by the picturesque mountain scenery. Breathtaking views of the Fraser Canyon feed the eye as you near the improbably high Deep Creek Bridge. The train runs alongside the mighty Fraser River until it reaches the sleepy town of Quesnel where it stops for the night, allowing you to explore one of the Canadian interior's oldest towns and home to the world's largest gold pan.

The next morning your journey continues eastward to the main Canadian Rockies. Entering the Rocky Mountain Trench and the upper reaches of the Fraser River, you are surrounded by mountains on all sides. The route then leaves the Fraser River at Tete Jaune Cache, and climbs past majestic Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies at 3954 m (12972 ft) and the highlight of the journey. It is now time to put your watches forward one hour as the train crosses the top of the Yellowhead Pass and the border to the province of Alberta. The journey ends as the Rocky Mountaineer descends through Jasper National Park to the perfect little town of Jasper.

HOW

By train

DEPART

Whistler, BC

WHEN TO GO

The service only operates between mid-May and mid-October.

TIME IT TAKES

Two days

HIGHLIGHTS

Mount Robson - the Canadian Rockies may not be as tall as those south of the border, but you are looking at it from near sea level.

Mount Robson is the biggest vertical rockface you will find anywhere on Earth.

The Fraser River - which in spring is one of the fastest flowing rivers in the world.

The chance to see bear, wolves and elk - and more - along the way.

Jasper - unspoilt by mass development and well preserved - it's an ideal town to end your journey and tarry for a while.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The service on board is first class, but it doesn't come cheap. However most people who have made this journey will tell you that there is no better way to spend the kids' inheritance ...

Hotels in Whistler

Crete Senesi

2012-01-19T12:48:00.001Z

Cycling through the lovely landscapes of Crete Senesi is possibly the best way to see the part of Tuscany to the south of Siena. Meaning 'Siennese clays', the name refers to the greyish beige colour of the clay soil, which is used in the production of terracotta tiles and splendid, large olive jars. Leaving the Val d'Orcia, its green, undulating hills occasionally interrupted by eroded gullies, make your way to Montepulciano.

Topping a ridge, its superb views stretch out for miles. At the foot of the hill is the Renaissance church of San Biagio. Designed by Antonio da Sangallo, this is an exceptional building.

The road from the church up to the town, however, is steep, and you'll need a glass or two of the excellent, local red wine by the time you get there. Wheel along through vineyards and olive groves on unpaved roads that wind up hill and down vale. Catch glimpses of fortified hilltop villages and ancient farmhouses, and notice the vines giving way to fields of wheat and sunflowers swaying in the welcome breeze, Cyprus trees standing sentinel against the deep blue sky. Arriving in 15th century Pienza, you find a treasure trove of Renaissance architecture, built by order of Pope Pius II, whose birthplace it was. The piazza, with the Pope's family palazzo and a splendid cathedral, is a glorious sight.

Leaving Pienza, you head for Montalcino. Set on a hilltop overlooking the valleys beneath, the town has been settled since Etruscan times, though today it is far better known for its exceptional Brunello wines than for its historic architecture. Make sure you visit the nearby Sant'Antimo Abbey: started in the 9th century, it is a sublime example of monastic architecture. The mellow stone glows in the warm light of the surrounding countryside, forming a perfect, harmonious scene.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

Three days or more, depending on how many places you decide to visit.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Bravio delle Botti, an annual event occurring on the last Sunday in August, when competing teams push large wine casks up the hill.

Asciano, a small walled town in the heart of Crete Senesl. with mixed Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

San Quirico and Bagno Vignoni, popular for their spring water even in Roman times.

The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore and Its famous frescoes.

The glorious landscapes through which you travel and the views from the hill towns.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The cycling varies from easy to really quite strenuous - bear in mind that this is a hilly region, and mountain bikes are needed.

Hotels in Siena

Walking the Levada do Caldeirão Verde in Madeira

2012-01-18T00:36:00.003Z

In the early 15th century, Portuguese settlers found an uninhabited, densely forested, mountainous island, which they named Ilha de Madeira, meaning 'Island of wood'. After clearing the mountain slopes for cultivation, they realized that although the north of the island had more water than it needed, the south - the best agricultural land - was dry for much of the year.

This led to the building of levadas, a huge system of irrigation channels that divert the excess water from the mountains to the rest of the island. Many were dug into the ground, but many others were hand-hewn into rock or tunnelled through mountains, often by slave labour from Portugal's colonial empire. Today the 2000 km (l250 mi) long system is still being expanded, and the footpaths alongside the levadas, essential for maintenance, are now a favourite destination for walkers, and a perfect way of exploring the stunning interior of the island.

The levada of Caldeirao Verde, (Green Cauldron) built in the 18th century, is a beautiful, steep walk, begirming at Queimadas Forestry Park, at an altitude of 890 m (2900 ft). The path first takes you up through the forest of laurels, beeches, Japanese cedars and junipers, soon providing spectacular views of the terracotta roof tiles of the villages below. The route winds through four different tunnels, the second of which is 200 m (660 ft) long, each carved by hand, after which you will soon see the Caldeirao on your left - a natural, mossy rock bowl containing a waterfall-fed lake. All along the narrow path, moss, ferns and lichen growing to either side, you will see dramatic mountain scenery, and by the time you reach the Caldeirao you'll be glad to have a rest and, perhaps, a picnic, with just the sounds of splashing water and birdsong for company.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

April to November

TIME IT TAKES

Two to three hours

HIGHLIGHTS

Levada of 25 Fontes - where you will find 25 springs cascading into a lake.

Ribeiro Frio to Portela. through glorious heather forests.

The UNESCO World Heritage Nature Site (1999) of Madeira's Laurissilva Forest.

The volcanic caves of Sao Vicente.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Some levada walks are much harder than others. For this one, take walking boots and a torch for the tunnels.

Hotels in Madeira

Pyrenean Haute Route

2012-01-18T00:31:00.001Z

This 800 km (500 mi) trek runs from Hendaye on the Atlantic to Banyuls-sur-Mer on the Mediterranean. It takes the high line along the spine of the mountains, avoiding centres of human activity. Though it rarely strays too far from useful facilities, the Haute Route Pyreneenne (HRP) from one end of the Pyrenees to the other is not always well marked (good maps arc essential) and there is little prospect of rescue in case of difficulty. It is therefore an undertaking reserved for adventurers experienced in demanding back-packing, as the sheer length of the journey precludes professionally guided trips.

That said, many people choose to hike shorter sections of this superb mountain route alone or with an organized party. The HRP is one of Europe's classic hikes and is definitely the highest, most beautiful, dramatic and challenging walk the Pyrenees can offer, as it weaves to and fro across the French-Spanish border. Although not way-marked, the path is generally well defined, and there are a number of refuges along the way that allow the intrepid walker to 'stay high' and rarely descend into the valleys. The true joy of walking the Pyrenees - apart from the rugged mountain scenery - is the fact that this is one of Europe's last great wilderness areas.

There are many variants along the HRP where trekkers can choose alternative paths - for example to avoid the few sections that require the use of crampons and an ice axe. If you are only able to spare a limited amount of time, be sure not to miss the section containing the spectacular Ordesa Gorge and the Cirque de Gavarnie, a breathtakir.g natural amphitheatre. Other rewarding short-trek options are the major surrunit ascents (choose from ten, Pico Aneto beillg the highest).

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Mid-June to mid-September

TIME IT TAKES

Allow around six weeks for the sea-to-sea journey

HIGHLIGHTS

The Pic du Midi d'Ossau (known as 'the Matterhorn of the Pyrenees'), a striking twin-headed peak.

Aigues Tortes National Park, an area of outstanding natural beauty sprinkled with deep-blue glacial lakes.

The Pic d' Ansabere, with extraordinary fingers of limestone rock that look like organ pipes.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Emergency rations are essential - one of the main difficulties in walking the HRP is that food supplies cannot be replenished every day.

Hotels in Haute Pyrénées

Bridges Cycle Route

2012-01-17T18:19:00.002Z

The web of rivers, lakes and canals spread across the flatlands of Germany's northwest comer is cycling heaven. Easy riding leaves you plenty of energy to enjoy the succession of nature reserves, moors and wetlands that stud the rich loam of Lower Saxony's northern farmland. Isolated now, the region's small villages and towns once stood on some of Europe's busiest trade routes. The Bridges Cycle Route follows one of them, from Osnabruck to Bremen. Both cities rose to prominence under Charlemagne at the tum of the 8th/9th centuries, but the region had been prized long before by the Romans (whose ubiquitous relics of defeat are a matter of great local pride).

Osnabrock's market place and old town comprise one of the most beautiful survivals of urban medieval architecture anywhere (and the treaty of Westphalia was signed here in 1648, ending the Thirty Years War); while still evident behind Bremen's bustling modernity is the equally ancient city of Roland, who held the pass at Roncesvalles for his King, Charlemagne. Between them the cycling is mostly asphalt, with some forest, farm and gravel tracks in the nature reserves along the way. Dummer Lake is home to every kind of watery recreation, besides providing sanctuary to a huge variety of waterfowl and bird species.

Goldenstedt has an ingenious tunnel to introduce you to moorland ecology; and the historic wonders of Diepholz, Lohne and Vechta are matched by the megalithic tombs and historical monuments of the Wildeshauser Geest. You pick your way across water and wetness on every kind of imaginable bridge: plank, wooden arch, Roman (Bohmte/Hunteburg), medieval stone, moated drawbridge, sculpted Baroque or railway viaduct. The final bridge takes you across the River Weser straight to Bremen's Schlachte, the promenade of restaurants in the heart of the city. Cyclists can even park there.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

April to October, but experienced bikers may also enjoy the vast skies and misty, diffused light of winter, when icy roads are not recommended for novices.

TIME IT TAKES

Four to five days

HIGHLIGHTS

The ancient battle site of Kalkriese (aka. 'Varus battle'), near Bramsche, where Roman legions suffered a devastating rout in 9 AD at the hands of Germanic tribes, and never got this far again. The museum has original artefacts of the battle, and colourful re-enactments.

The moated castle at Diepholz.

The citadel and armoury museum at Vechta.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The defeat by Arminius of the Roman legions under Varus has been the subject of centuries of myth, disbelief, and speculation. Only In 1987/88 did anyone find sufficient evidence (thousands of coins, weapons, and many other relevant objects) to show that the battle really did take place on the scale lauded in German poetry.

Hotels in Bremen and Osnabruck

Orkhon Valley

2012-01-16T17:38:00.004Z

Mongolia is the most sparsely populated country in the world, a vast untamed expanse of mountain, forest, desert and plateau. In this nomadic land where more than thirty per cent of the population are still herdsmen and there are scarcely any roads, riding is the normal means of getting around. Mongolians have an almost symbiotic relationship with their horses - calm, surefooted ponies that easily handle the rough terrain unshod.

An expedition by horse to the Orkhon Valley will open your eyes to a way of life that is utterly unfamiliar. The Orkhon is the cradle of Central Asian nomadic societies, a World Heritage Cultural Landscape where the inhabitants live in harmony with nature, continuing pastoral traditions and shamanic religious practices that have remamed unchanged for some two millenia.

As you ride through the wildflower pastures by the River Orkhon, the only signs of human life are the scattered gers (yurt tents) of nomad families. A camping trek of some 200 km (125 mi) along the river valley and up into the Khangai Mountains, through verdant, volcanic plains and forested gorges to the dramatic cascade of the Orkhon waterfall is a liberating escape from the complexities of the post-modern age. Here there is just you, your horse and nature in the raw.

Incredible as it may seem, you are travelling through the heart of the largest empire in the history of the world. At its height in the 13th century, the Mongol Empire stretched across Central Asia from Beijing to the borders of Hungary. Ghengis Khan held sway over more than a 100 million people from his capital city of Kharkhorum in the Orkhon Valley. The remnants can be seen today - ruins standing as testaments that this remote valley was once the centre of the world.

HOW

On horseback

WHEN TO GO

May to October

TIME IT TAKES

Ten days

HIGHLIGHTS

Galloping across the steppe.

Staying in a traditional ger camp.

Ruins of Kharakhorum - Ghengis Khan's capital.

Erdene Zuu Monastery - most ancient Buddhist monastery in Mongolia.

Drinking fermented mare's milk.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

You should be a reasonably competent horse rider to go on this trek. Alternative means of transport are yak cart, mountain bike or 4x4.

Wonderland Trail

2012-01-16T17:32:00.003Z

Up and down, up and down - the Wonderland Trail in Washington State is not for the faint-hearted or unfit. This rough-country route shuns roads and human habitation as it journeys around mighty Mount Rainier in the National Park of the same name, arriving back at the starting point after 150 km (93 mi). As to that up-and-down element, the cumulative elevation gain during the circumnavigation is around 6000 m (20000 ft), which adds up to a serious physical effort as the Trail crosses ridge after soaring ridge.

But Wonderland it is - the Mount Rainier National Park offers a variety of eco-systems, from lowland forest to sub-alpine meadows, and Mount Rainier itself reveals a series of spectacular glaciers as the journey unfolds. The Trail crosses many rivers, often by simple log bridges, occasionally by more dramatic suspension bridges. Though there are a number of trailheads that will be busy in summer, many stretches of the Trail provide complete solitude amidst natural grandeur. But hikers should be aware that weather conditions can be treacherous, with dangerous storms always a possibility (especially in September). This is definitely not a journey for the inexperienced, but only the hardened wilderness hiker.

There are several campgrounds on the Trail (booking advisable in mid-summer), together with 18 trailside campsites at regular intervals along the way, each with a nearby water source and a bear pole for hanging food safely. A backcountry permit is required to hike the entire Trail, and the challenge is so alluring that early application is advisable (in March), as a ballot is held in April to allocate a limited number of permits, thus ensuring the Wonderland Trail will never be spoiled by over-exploitation.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Late July to October (to avoid possible snow coverage).

TIME IT TAKES

Two weeks

HIGHLIGHTS

An original ranger's cabin at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, dating from the construction of the Wonderland Trail in 1915.

Mowich Lake, a pretty trailhead in the northwestern corner of the National Park that offers basic facilities to the weary hiker.

Longmire Buildings in the Nisqually River valley - a brief dose of civilization with an inn, museum and Wilderness Information Center.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Each year, only two to three hundred people manage to complete the entire Wonderland Trail in a single, unbroken hike.

Hotels in Washington State

Canal du Midi

2012-01-16T17:24:00.003Z

In the 17th century boats provided the most efficient way to carry goods - but waterborne cormnerce between northern and southern France was fraught with danger, as ships had to sail around hostile Spain, running the gauntlet of Barbary pirates on a month-long voyage. Solution? Build a canal that links the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The result was the 235 km (145 mi) Canal du Midi, connecting Toulouse on the Garonne River to the Mediterranean port of Sète. Opened in 1681, it was a monumental engineering achievement with over 300 significant structures, including more than 100 locks, many bridges, several dams and a tunnel. For three centuries this extraordinary waterway served its purpose well, bringing prosperity along its length, and since commercial traffic ceased in 1980 it has become Europe's most popular leisure waterway.

It's easy to understand why. The Canal du Midi goes through stunning countryside and time has been kind, mellowing the canal to the point where it seems like a graceful extension of the landscape as it meanders through Cathar country, passing towns and villages that have preserved their traditional character and charm. Cruising the canal is hugely popular and there are many options for those who wish to experience the delights of this unique waterway, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is possible to travel from end to end (either way) on cruise boats, which usually offer additional sightseeing opportunities along the way. This journey can also be done by hire craft, though the schedule often demands a hectic pace with little time to stop and explore. Most people prefer to focus on a section of the canal (often one with no locks!) and proceed slowly, opting for one of the many different types of craft on offer from numerous boat-hire establishment and enjoying a truly relaxing holiday in wonderful surroundings.

HOW

By boat

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

At least a week for an end-to-end cruise without sightseeing stops. Boat hire available from one day upwards for custom cruises.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Malpas Tunnel, the world's first-ever canal tunnel. under Enserune Hill in Herrault - there are now two more tunnels beneath it, a railway tunnel and a drainage adit.

A typical canal-side village - there are dozens to enjoy, but a fine example is Capestang with its fine stone bridge, splendid fortified church and picturesque central square.

Wine - the canal runs through France's most prolific wine-producing region. so there are endless opportunities to stop and taste.

Surrealistic wood sculptures lining the canal at Aiguille, near Puicheric - created by an artist who is also the , lock-keeper (or the lock-keeper who is also an artist).

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Canal du Midi was created by visionary Languedoc tax collector Pierre-Paul Riquet. but the enterprise bankrupted him and debts incurred in building the canal were not paid off for 100 years.

Hotels in Toulouse

Madrid to Barcelona

2012-01-16T17:18:00.002Z

The Alta Velocidad Espanola, better known as the AVE ('bird' in Spanish), is a high-speed train capable of travelling at 350 kph (220 mph) - the Spanish super-equivalent of the French TGV. AVE trains have been running between Madrid and the south of Spain since 1992 but, until recently, it still took more than six hours to get to Barcelona, Spain's second most important city. Although construction ofthe high-speed line to Barcelona was a priority and started years ago, engineering problems caused by repeated land sinkage kept delaying its completion.

The Madrid-Zaragoza-Barcelona line was finally inaugurated in February 2008 with seventeen trains in each direction per day. It is one of the world's fastest trains covering a distance of 660 km (410 mi) in just 2 hours 38 minutes. This brand-new self-driving, high-speed train may well live up to its acronym and make air travel obsolete. The AVE takes hardly any longer than the plane once you include check-in times and the journey to and from the airport, and is far less hassle and much more comfortable.

Madrid's Atocha Station looks more like an airport terminal than a station, its huge central atrium decked in palm trees. The AVE glides away from the platform and is soon whizzing across the beautiful countryside of Aragon and Catalonia. But it goes so fast, the view from your window is a blur; you are more likely to pass the time reclining in the luxury of your swivel seat, relishing the Michelin-starred food that is served on board, and playing with the audio, video and internet technology at your fingertips. Before you know it, you are at the World Heritage city of Zaragoza and only a little while later pull into Sants Station in the vibrant heart of Barcelona.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

Anytime

TIME IT TAKES

2 hours 38 minutes

HIGHLIGHTS

Madrid - Prado Art Gallery

Zaragoza - Cathedral of San Salvador

Barcelona - Parc Guell and Sagrada Familia Church both designed by Antoni Gaudi.

Barcelona - Las Ramblas and Barri Gòtic - old city centre

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Spain is aiming to have more high speed train lines than anywhere else in the world by 2010. Travelling by train creates four times less pollution than air travel.

Hotels in Madrid and Barcelona

Running the Orange River

2012-01-16T17:06:00.004Z

For those in search of adventure, running the Orange River in the Richtersveldt National Park on the border of South Africa and Namibia is just the ticket. In this isolated part of the Northern Cape, the Orange River's long journey from the Drakensberg range to the Atlantic Ocean finally ends. Here, this majestic river is a long, green-fringed oasis that offers scenic stretches of serene water as it twists and turns through a striking desert landscape, with occasional fun rapids to spice up the journey.

This is a river nm to be undertaken with a guide, either solo or with a group. The Orange River is usually tackled using two-person inflatable rafts, kayaks or canoes, sometimes with the support of a larger raft carrying supplies. A typical trip will be around 80 km (50 mi) long and different guides and organizers use various starting and take-out points. There is usually a base camp at the start where personal belongings may be left, with transport back at the end of the trip. Most expeditions assemble at Vioolsdrift on the Namibian border, just upriver from the Park - and some 350 km (217 mi) from the mouth of the Orange River - from where paddlers are driven to base camp.

The Richtersveldt National Park has recently been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's easy to understand why. The Richtersveldt is one of the most remote and unspoiled areas of South Africa, and one of the best ways to see this barren but extraordinary place is from the river that runs through it - some say the best way. It's a true wilderness expenence, ill a rocky landscape that one writer has eloquently called 'too beautiful to describe'. Somehow, that says it all- though that means you must see for yourself.

HOW

By raft, kayak or canoe

WHEN TO GO

March to January

TIME IT TAKES

Four to six days for a typical journey.

HIGHLIGHTS

Rapids like Dead Man's Rapid and Sjambok Rapid - not too dangerous, but definitely enough to get the blood pounding.

Birds - the water and banks are alive with species including cormorants, goliath herons, fish eagles and kingfishers.

Tall tales around the campfire under an amazing African sky at the end of a rewarding day's paddling.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

If a custom journey doesn't appeal, various canoe societies in the Northern Cape organize annual marathons on the Orange River.

Hotels in South Africa and Namibia

Golden Pass Panoramic Express

2012-01-15T23:53:00.005Z

Officially, the Golden Pass links Zurich and Geneva, but its real purpose is to offer travellers a means of exploring the heart of Central Switzerland between Lucerne and Montreux without doubling their tracks. Each of the stops (Lucerne-Interlaken-Zweisimnen-Montreux) is a gateway to a choice of extraordinary excursions and activities in the area. The Golden Pass is designed to make them accessible and heavily discounted when the invitations to linger become irresistible. Otherwise, the scenic beauty and variety of the basic five hour eighteen minute journey is just an exercise in frustration.

From Lucerne you can take a paddle steamer across the Lake to the cog railway up Rigi, the artist J.M.W. Turner's 'mountain of infinite mood'; or plunge into the gloomy splendour of the gorges leading to the dramatic Reichenbach Falls. At Interlaken, you can take one of several funiculars or mountain railways into the soul of the Bernese Oberland - even to the top of the Jungfrau itself. The onward journey is always magnificent, past the lakes of Brienz and Thun, through Spiez to the Simmen Valley, guarded at Wimmis by a fairytale 15th-century castle.

At Zweisimrnen, you change trains to the special gauge Golden Pass Panoramic train designed by Ferrari's Pininfarina for the best possible views. The train climbs slowly enough to see the intricate and elaborate carvings typical of the region's chalets. These designs change radically from the steep-sided alpine pastoral valleys above Gstaad, to the gentler landscapes of French-speaking Switzerland near Chateau d'Oex (where a perfect sheltered microclimate makes it a world centre for hot-air ballooning). Then, as a visual crescendo of Wagnerian proportions, the train climbs a series of mountains, bridges and viaducts, through the summit tunnel to Les Avants, to emerge with the French Alps spread before you, beyond Montreux and the beckoning sparkle of Lac Leman below.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

April to October. The service operates year-round, but many of the excursions that make breaking the journey so exciting do not.

TIME IT TAKES

7 hours 20 minutes (Zurich to Geneva, including 5 hours 18 minutes Lucerne to Montreux). But the onward Golden Pass ticket remains valid however long you take to travel its different sections.

HIGHLIGHTS

The pedestrian suspension bridge over one of Europe's most spectacular gorges near Aareschlucht Ost, Innertkirchen (part of an excursion including the Reichenbach Falls).

The super-privileged view from the very front of the train (beneath the driver's elevated cab), going up the giant horseshoe curve out of the gorgeous Simmental above Gstaad.

The intricate carvings, decorations and paintings on the huge, 113-windowed chalet at Rossiniere. in the distinctive style of the thickly wooded Pays d'Enhaut pre-Alpine region.

The quite stupendous view during the switchback hairpin descent into Montreux - the nearest a railway can get to a mountain road.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Reservations are nocessary for seats in restaurant and 'panoramic' cars; and especially for the 'driver's seats' at the front of the train.

Hotels in Geneva and Zurich

Petra Monastery Hike

2012-01-15T23:48:00.001Z

Visitors to Petra may choose to escape the crowds and see Little Petra, a few miles north. This was an important suburb of Petra, a re-supply post for travellers and traders. Its Arab name is Siq Barid, 'The Cold' - it is entered by a slit in the rocks so narrow the sun scarcely filters through. The 400 m (1300 ft) siq opens up into wider areas where the rock walls are crowded with houses, temples and triclinia, linked by rock-cut stairways in the cliff face.

Floods have eroded lower façades but some of the higher ones are well preserved. As well as the dining rooms, there are a number of water channels and cisterns. A set of stairs at the bottom of lhe siq leads to a hidden canyon with views of the surrounding countryside. A little south are the ruins of Al Beidah, a Neolithic village and one of the oldest sites in the Middle East. The remains are unremarkable, but some of the items found, dating to around 7000 BC, bear witness to early experiments in settled agriculture.

The path drops to a wadi and from here a fairly easy hour's walk reaches the Monastery of Al Dier. Following small wadis through the rocks cuts out some of the hundreds of steps up to this inspiring monument. Near the top views open up over the mountains and valleys. The Monastery was actually a single chamber temple dedicated to a Nabatean king, probably used later as a church. The flat plaza to the front was levelled for ceremonials; the massive façade - nearly 50 m (162 ft) square-is carved into the mountainside; the doorway is bigger than a house.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

March to May, September and October

TIME IT TAKES

One day

HIGHLIGHTS

The tranquillity of Siq Barid. a beautiful, remote and mysterious place.

The Painted House in little Petra has the remains of frescoed ceilings dating to the 1st century AD.

The Qattar ad-Dayr on the way up to the Monastery: a green, mossy, silent grotto with year-round water and Nabatean carvings.

The cafe in the cave. opposite the Monastery allows rest, refreshment and views of the façade.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

It is wise to hire a guide for the walk from Little Petra.

Hotels in Jordan

Pico Duarte

2012-01-15T23:45:00.002Z

Pico Duarte (3087m/10128 ft) is the highest mountain in the Caribbean. More significantly, it is the centrepiece of the huge Cordillera Central Reserve of Bermudez National Park, and almost untouched by the kind of tourism that threatens to make a Disney World of other parts of the Dominican Republic. The Park is uninhabited, a pristine wilderness of clear mountain rivers, jungle forests alive with the darting colours of hummingbirds and parrots, and the most magnificent landscapes in the Caribbean. Pico Duarte itself is only one of several similar peaks, and incorporates distinct sub-tropical eco-zones ranging from coconut palms and swaying bamboo groves to humid mountain forest, mountain rainforest and cool alpine scrub and pine.

Of the five routes to Pico Duarte, all are strenuous hikes of between 3 to 6 days and 46 to 108 km (28 to 67 mi). The most popular starts 25 km (13 mi) south west of Jarabacoa, from the village of La Cienaga where you have to register for the 46 km (28 mi) round trip, and hire a guide and mule (the mule is all but mandatory - if only as insurance for porterage and safety). Early in the morning, you follow the bubbling rivers up into the wild woodlands, serenaded by Mourning Doves. The dense forest thins, and gaps in the canopy reveal more and more of Hispaniola's fabled, translucent beauty.

By nightfall you reach a ramshackle cabin called La Comparticion, where the trails meet and hiking parties prepare for the pre-dawn scramble up the last 5 km (3 mi), through scented pines and open meadows, to greet the sunrise from the bare, rocky summit. On a clear day with the clouds flushed pink below you, with the emerald forest and blue sea sharp contrasts in the distance, Pico Duarte's rugged antiquity fully justifies its mythic status in the Caribbean imagination. A magical trek.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Year-round - but never without a waterproof coat, winter clothing, a sleeping bag and hiking boots.

Traversing distinct climate zones almost guarantees unstable weather at any time of year.

TIME IT TAKES

3 days, 46 km (28 mi) round trip (La Cienaga); 5 days, 90 km (56 mi) (Mata Grande); 6 days, 86 km (53 mi) (Los Corralitos); 6 days, 96 km (59 mi) (Sabaneta); 6 days, 108 km (67 mi) (Las Lagunas).

HIGHLIGHTS

Climbing the highest mountain in North America, east of the Mississippi.

The variety and numbers of birds - including trogons, hispaniolan parrots, palm chats, woodpeckers, red-tailed hawks. and zumbador hummingbirds.

Riding mules (you can hire as many as you want: the rule of thumb is one guide and one mule for every five hikers).

YOU SHOULD KNOW

With one or two extra mules, even small children can enjoy trekking on and around Pica Duarte. Some have been known to sleep happily while strapped to a mule on a 9-degree gradient.

Hotels in Dominican Republic

Shanghai's Maglev Train

2012-01-15T23:40:00.004Z

A ride on Shanghai's Maglev (magnetic levitation) Train is a journey into the future of transport. The Maglev rail system might be only 30.5 km (19 mi) long, but that's enough to demonstrate its potential to transform national and international economies by bringing the most remote areas within reach of trade and tourism. Although Maglev was created and developed in Gennany, Shanghai is the first place in the world to use it successfully in a scheduled service, or indeed in any commercial venture at all, and the statistics are amazing. The train can reach 350 kph (220 mph) in two minutes, and is designed for normal operation with a maximum speed of 431 kph (268 mph).

But during tests, the train reached a top speed of 501 kph (311 mph), an indication of what it holds in reserve. With no conventional engine, and on a (necessarily) dedicated track of electromagnetic power and guidance coils, the impetus of acceleration is spread throughout the train. The ride is as smooth as an airborne aircraft, without even the spine-pinning surge of 'take-off'. Looking ahead from the Maglev, you see how the swooping concrete curves of the track are banked; inside, you barely feel it. Once on board, a flickering display charts even the slightest variation in speed, and you can't help sharing the thrill of streaking past the fastest cars on the adjacent expressway.

So far, the Shanghai Maglev only connects Pudong International Airport and Longyang Road, a suburb of the business district, and a long way from downtown. Despite some legitimate misgivings yet to be resolved, plans to extend the line to 160 km (99 mi) between downtown Shanghai and Hangzhou are going ahead. Then you will be able to transfer the 55 km (34 mi) between Shanghai's two airports in 15 minutes -like flying at zero altitude.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

Year-round. Initially, you could only travel on the Maglev as part of an organized tour. Now that it is integrated into the regular transport system, you can ride it at any time.

TIME IT TAKES

Usually 7 minutes 20 seconds (the taxi ride over the same route takes at least 1 hour).

HIGHLIGHTS

No fossil fuel! (The Maglev may not be environmentally perfect. but it's in the right direction.)

Seeing the driver of a Ferrari on the expressway shaking his fist at the Maglev speeding past.

Floating on a magnetic cushion - a thought worthy of both Confucius and China's most imaginative poets.

The exhilaration of pure speed intensified the first time by just a twinge of apprehension, and on subsequent occasions by excited anticipation.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

This technology is going to happen all over the world, and you don't need to know anything about science to share the thrill of it.

Hotels in Shanghai

Amsterdam Tram

2012-01-15T23:36:00.004Z

Unlike their counterparts in many other European cities, citizens of the Dutch capital never lost their trams - but by the end of the 20th century Amsterdam's extensive network was getting tired, with antiquated cars that were constantly out of service for repair. By 2003, a fleet of new Combino trams came into service, with wheelchair-friendly low floors. These sleek blue-and-white trams have become a welcome sight, operating alongside a number of older cars that have h:er retained.

Riding the trams is an excellent way of seeing Amsterdam for those who don't have time for the water tour, and the Combinos with their large windows provjde a great vjew of 'The Venice of the North'. New trams went hand in hand with a major refurbishment and extension of the network, a work in progress, but the first fruit was the introduction of a new route - Line 26 from Central Station to the new housing developments of IJburg on artificial islands reclaimed from the vast (and equally artificial) IJsselmeer inland sea - the former being yet another example of the Dutch genius for turning water into dry land, and the latter of their ability to tum salt water into fresh.

Line 26 is inevitably known as the IJtram. This 8.5 km (5 mi) route runs mainly through residential areas, rather than amidst heavy city traffic, and includes the 1.5 km (1 mi) Piet Hein Tunnel. Happily for commuters, it is the only tramline in Amsterdam that accepts non-folding bicycles. It also provides an interesting return journey from the city centre, passing the spectacular new Muziekgebouw concert hall, the passenger tenninal where cruise ships dock, the Lloyd Hotel and Eastern Docklands, before crossing IJburg's successive islands. This is not a particularly scenic journey, but the opportunity to see the on-going work of redeveloping Amsterdam's waterfront and IJburg should not be missed.

HOW

By tram

WHEN TO GO

March to October to avoid short days and sometimes bitterly cold winter weather.

TIME IT TAKES

The IJtram takes just 18 minutes from Central Station to the Harbour · Island terminus in IJburg.

HIGHLIGHTS

The heart of the old city around Central Station, for the scenic Amsterdam of canals and tall houses at its best.

A visitor centre near the Vennepluimstraat stop on line 26, which explains the ambitious creation of IJburg.

Crossing the impressive Enneus Bridge that carries both the IJtram and the only road to and from IJburg.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Amsterdam's trams cross more than 1500 bridges, often after making the sharpest of turns.

Hotels in Amsterdam

Sentiero del Viandante (Lake Como)

2012-01-05T19:06:00.004Z

Lake Como, situated in northern Italy close to the Swiss border, has attracted visitors for centuries. Today, the actor George Clooney has a villa here, but wealthy Lombardians and Milanese holidayed here long before the region was 'discovered' during the 19th century, when Europe's writers, artists and composers began to arrive. The lake, shaped like an inverted 'Y', boasts a delightful, sub-tropical climate, and the resulting vegetation, olive and citrus groves, bougainvillea and palm trees, looks remarkable against the backdrop of snow-clad mountains.

The Sentiero del Viandante, or Wayfarer's Trail, is an ancient mule path connecting the villages along the lake, originally used for bringing goods both from Milan, to the south, and the northern plains. Nowadays it is a little piece of hiker heaven, with Orange signs marking the route. Starting at Lierna, a lovely, medieval town with two of the lakels best beaches, follow the path up towards Ortanello, through the forest to the 13th century church of St Peter.

This is a perfect spot for a picnic. A sunny, grassy space – complete with fountain, tables and even barbecue equipment - spreads out around the church, and by now you'll need a break. Follow the trail through Ortanello and soon you'll be heading down to Varenna. You are now high over the lake and this is the trickiest part of the hike, but the views over the sparkling blue lake and the mountains are glorious. Visit the ruins of Vezio Castle - from the top of the tower you can see over the entire lake. Varenna, perhaps the most picturesque town on Lake Como, has steep, narrow lanes that wind down to the harbour, past lovely houses, their balconies a mass of colourful flowers. Here you can finally sit down and sip a glass of cold Prosecco whilst looking over the water.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Late March to October

TIME IT TAKES

Five to six hours

HIGHLIGHTS

Fiume Latte - the shortest stream in Italy appears in spring from a grotto, white-ish in colour because of its steep descent.

Villa Cipressi - named for its Cyprus trees; now a hotel, its splendid gardens reach right down to the lakeside.

Villa Monastero - another historic building, now an international cultural and scientific centre, with a magnificent garden.

Take the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio and Menaggio.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

In 2007 Lake Como was reported as being too polluted for swimming.

Check on the situation before you dive in.

Hotels in Lake Como

La Pedriza

2012-01-05T19:03:00.004Z

One of the many wonders of Madrid is its proximity to some astounding natural scenery. Less than an hour's bus ride northwards and you can breathe pure mountain air and escape the crowds in the wilderness of La Pedriza. This 32 sq km (12 sq mi) granite massif, a spur of the Sierra de Guadarrama, is a mind-blowing landscape of golden-pink granite spires and domes, veined with streams. Crazily complex rock formations sprout out of the woods, with names like El Pajaro (the Bird), La Foca (the Seal), and La Tortuga (the Tortoise).

Wild goats roam among the granite slabs and falcons and vultures whirl through the sky.

La Pedriza is incredibly popular among Madrilenos for the hiking and climbing here but it's not much frequented by tourists. There are numerous romantic legends and anecdotes attached to the area. It is all too easy to lose one's way among the granite cliffs and slabs, making it a haven for 19th century bandits and later a Republican hideout in the Spanish Civil War.

At the foot of La Pedriza lies Manzanares el Real, a faintly bohemian village inhabited by artisans, artists and musicians. From here you can walk along the tranquil tree-lined banks of the River Manzanares, swimming in one of the waterholes on your way up to the shrine of Peña Sacra for a spectacular view; or, for a more testing journey, take the 4 km (2.5 mi) zigzag route to El Yelmo (the Helmet), a high rock dome to the north of the village, perhaps the most famous feature of La Pedriza. Whichever route you take, you cannot fail to be awestruck by the beauty of this unique landscape.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

A daytrip from Madrid with a 2-5 hour walk.

HIGHLIGHTS

Castillo de Manzanares.

16th century Church of Nuestra Senora de las Nieves.

Panoramic view from La Ermita de Nuestra Senora de la Peña Sacra.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

If you want La Pedriza to yourself, go on a weekday. You need to be fit to scramble across the granite slabs in your path. This is a great place for climbers of all levels.

Hotels in Madrid

Lima to Huancayo

2012-01-05T18:59:00.004Z

Second only to the Pan-Himalayan Railway in Tibet which opened in 2005, the Lirna-Huancayo line soars 4829m (15839 ft) up into the Andes, a masterpiece of engineering and a thrilling ride. It took 38 years to build the 335 km (209 mi) railway, including some 59 bridges, 66 tunnels, and 22 zigzags where the train switchbacks up sheer cliff faces. Its completion in 1908 opened the huge mineral and agricultural wealth of the Andes to market at Lima and the port of Callao. It was, and still is a working train; and that's why it works so well as a visitors introduction to Peru.

It's a comfortable train, and it needs to be. For six hours you climb steadily from sea level at Lima to the frozen wilderness of the high Andes, feeding your growing altitude headache with coca tea from the trolley. When you stretch your legs at-what is still thought to be the world's highest station, Ticlio (4758m/15606 ft), you may gasp for -air and need the help of the Oxygen Matron who patrols the train. Most people do. The cold is bitter but the scenery is breathtaking. It gets, even better as you revive, watching flowing robes and llamas raising dust in the settlements of the altiplano.

At La Oroya, you change tracks and direction. Nothing grows around La Oroya. It is the smelting centre for a collection of mining towns nearby, all overhung with the smell of sulphur. After the fantastic mountain panoramas,before this section, it's a relief to leave the peaks and treeless tundra behind at Jauja, and descend through the fertile greenery of the Mantaro Valley, one of the greatest of all Andean craft centres. By the time you reach Huancayo, you feel you've travelled through the heart of Peru's economic future as well as its highland geography.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

Year-round (according to the often theoretical schedule), but between October and March, at least the Huancayo end of the trip will be balmier.

TIME IT TAKES

11-12 hours (in daylight: depart Lima 7.00 am, via Ticlio, La Oroya, Concepcion, arrive Huancayo 6.00-7.00 pm).

HIGHLIGHTS

The Desamparados railway station in Lima, built with flourish in 1912.

Coming out of a tunnel, along a cliff-edge gallery through an arch onto the Infiernillo Bridge over a deep chasm - a standout among spectacular thrills en route.

The oxygen Matron, whose presence on the train is required by law; for which you will be grateful.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

At the railway's highest point, there is 40 per cent less oxygen in the air than at Lima. People describe feeling drunk, shell-shocked or nauseous, and may stagger about or slump gasping.

But help is at hand, and it will pass as you descend.

Hotels in Lima

Rio Sonora (Sonora River)

2012-01-05T18:52:00.001Z

To follow the Rio Sonora is to journey through Mexican history, experiencillg both the harsh natural beauty surrounding this life-giving river and the traditional towns that have grown along its banks since the Jesuits first arrived in the 17th century. Rough terrain and an uncertain water supply have combined to ensure that the river conununities retain their rural roots, so this really is a step back in time. The river - and journey - starts just across from Arizona at Cananea.

Highway 118 loosely follows the river all the way down to Mazocahui, where a right turn onto Highway 14 completes the route to Hermosillo for a total distance of some 320 km (200 mi). It's worth exploring along the way, as this is a journey that can offer fascinating insight into Old Mexico, framed by the sweeping vistas of typically arid Sierra Madre scenery. Sonora is a mining town that's just a century old - and the massive copper mine west of the city is the largest in Mexico. The road next passes through a couple of ranching centres founded around 1650 - Bacoachi and Arizpe - before reaching Banamichi, settled by Jesuits in 1639.

The town's Hidalgo Plaza contains the Piedra Historica, an ancient petroglyph thought to be an irrigation map. At Huepac, look inside San Lorenzo, a 17th-century church with a fine interior. The next port of call is Aconchi, where the Agua Caliente Water Park has hot springs said to possess curative powers. Bavicora has a wonderful tree-lined plaza overlooked by the impressive Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion Cathedral. Ures was once the state capital of Sonora, and the town's historic roots are very evident in the Plaza Zaragoza and San Miguel Cathedral. Mazocahui is the last sleepy pueblo before you reach the bustling provincial capital of Herrnosillo, one of the largest towns in northern Mexico.

HOW

By car

DEPART

Cananea

WHEN TO GO

March-November

TIME IT TAKES

A day or three, depending whether or not you set a sensible Mexican pace.

HIGHLIGHTS

The magnificent 17th-century Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church in Arizpe, amid period buildings and a fine plaza.

Delightful riverside walks in Bavicora, shaded by sweeping oak, aspen and walnut trees.

Near Bacoachi - the Sierra de los Ajos ecological park, for a close-up encounter with Rio Sonora's flora and fauna.

La Plaza de Armas in Ures, with four wonderful bronze statues.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

If you visit in october and November there will be numerous bullfights and local celebrations accompanying the cane milling, peanut and chilli harvests.

Hotels in Sonora

Route 38 in Paris

2012-01-05T01:45:00.002Z

An excellent way of conserving shoe leather, whilst seeing Paris, is to ride L'autobus 38 from south to north through the centre of this romantic capital city. As the delightful journey unfolds, the traveller will not only see famous sights but also the hustle and bustle of everyday Paris. The ancient southeastern gate of Paris, porte d'Orléans, is the starting point of Route 38's green single-deckers. From there, they pass the Church of St Peter of Montrouge and the superb Metro entrance at Mouton Duvernet. Observatoire de Paris, with its lovely gardens, was created at the behest of Sun King Louis XIV, and appropriately the first map of the moon was made there. Note the chic La Closerie des Lilas in passing - a restaurant once frequented by the likes of Verlaine, Lenin and Ernest Hemingway.

Route 38 passes the 17th-century Luxembourg Palace and Gardens, built for a homesick Italian Queen. A short distance away is the Pantheon, where many of France's greatest citizens are interred and the Sorbonne, where most were educated. Break the journey at Saint-Michel - the square and boulevard are famous meeting-points - then wander over the River Seine to the He de la Cite, enjoying a wonderful close-up of Notre Dame Cathedral before catching a Route 38 bus in front of the historic Palais de Justice, passing the grand Hotel de Ville and reaching the terminal at rue de Victoria.

Half the buses stop here. Those that continue go through what Emile Zola described as 'The stomach of Paris' - Les Halles market area (now the Forum shopping - centre). Then it's the George Pompidou Centre and the triumphal arch of Porte Saint-Martin before Route 38 nears journey's end, reaching the magnificent Gare de l’Est and terminating at another piece of splendid Victorian railway architecture - the Gare du Nord.

HOW

By bus

WHEN TO GO

Any time

TIME IT TAKES

This is not a bus journey to take in one go - allow at least half a day to get off and explore along the way ... or better still make it a day.

HIGHLIGHTS

The unostentatious monastery shop at avenue Denfert Rocherau, opposite rue Cassini, for a wide range of hand-made goods produced ; throughout France by monks.

The Musée de Cluny in its 15th-century bUilding at Boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain - a fabulous collection of medieval artefacts and pictures.

The 136 statues of the great and the good from French history on the façade of the Victorian Hotel de Ville.

Interesting passages (small covered streets) between Boulevard de Strasbourg, rue du faubourg St-Denis and rue du Faubourg St -Martin.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Route 38 follows in famous footsteps - Porte d'Orléans is where General LeClerc, greeted by ecstatic flag - waving crowds, entered Paris to liberate the city from German occupation in 1944.

Hotels in Paris

Swat Valley

2011-12-29T18:39:00.001Z

Although the country of Pakistan was only created in 1947, it was born from a culture that goes back thousands of years, as is evident from the ancient remains, historic monwnents, beautiful architecture and the dignified demeanour of its people. Swat, the 'Switzerland of Asia', was an independent princely state ruled by the Wall of Swat until 1969, when he ceded his authority to the central government. People have lived here for more than 2000 years and there are plentiful remains from the Gandhara Buddhist civilization (and plenty of people claiming to be descendants of Alexander the Great). Situated in the foothills of the Hindu Kush, it is a spectacularly beautiful region where snow-capped mountains enclose small enchanting valleys, each a magical self-contained world of lakes, forests and waterfalls.

Battered Suzuki jeeps ply the main valley, piled high with passengers hanging onto the tailgate, and they career along in a cavalier fashion that, at first, is frankly terrifying. But, have faith-your driver knows every twist, turn, bump and pothole of the narrow road. Only an attitude of oriental fatalism will enable you to appreciate the captivating scenery as your vehicle whizzes alongside the River Swat taking you from the charming main town of Mingora to the villages of the upper valleys.

As the road winds upward, the mountains start to close in and the river becomes increasingly turbulent. Steep verdant slopes, terraced with fruit orchards and poppy fields, reach up to deep green forest and a skyline of glistening icy peaks. The mountain village of Kalam is secreted 100 km (60 mi) up the valley, in the depths of the forest beside a tumultuous river swollen with glacial water. The comparison with Switzerland is belittling. This is an altogether greater, wilder and more mysterious land - a sort of savage Paradise.

HOW

By 4X4

WHEN TO GO

April to June and September to October

TIME IT TAKES

Two to three days from Peshawar to Kalam

HIGHLIGHTS

Buddhist remains.

Mingora - market town on River Swat.

Madyan - picturesque riverside village.

Forest walk from Kalam to the Ushu glacier.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Swat has long been a wonderful tourist destination but it has been badly affected by post 9/11 politics and at the time of writing it is dangerous for foreigners. You should take heed of your government's advice as to when it is safe to travel here again.

Monasteries Hike in Armenia

2011-12-29T18:36:00.004Z

Armenia became Christian in 301 AD (around 90 per cent of Armenians are members of the Armenian Apostolic Church) and the lovely countryside is scattered with old churches and monasteries and elaborately carved stone crosses, khatchkars. Beautiful, green Lori province has a concentration of medieval monasteries along the spectacular Debed Canyon, Both the railway and the road north to Georgia follow the line of the Canyon, but if time is not pressing this makes an excellent walk Distances are small, several of the villages have accommodation and climbs are not demanding.

From Tumanyan, the ruined 13th-century convent and the hamlet of Kobayr are visible. Stone steps from the railway line lead up the hill. The roofless church still has some frescoes. The large village of Qdzun sits on a shelf over a steep drop to the Debed River; in the centre of the village, the sturdy church is 17th century, with an arcaded cloister once used as a school. On the edge of the cliff is another church and the remains of Horomayri Monastery cling to the slopes a little to the south.

Alaverdi is a quiet town lYing in a bend of the canyon. There is a 12th century hump-backed stone bridge over the river, but this is mainly a modern copper-mining town. The cable car (which runs to the shift timetable at the mine) provides an easy way up to the canyon edge, and the villages of Sadahart and Sanahin. Sanahin Monastery is a UNESCO Word Heritage Site. The oldest building dates to 928; this was the seat of an archbishop and there is a funeral chapel for the royal Zakarian family. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Haghpat Monastery, founded in 976, perches on the edge of the canyon and combines superb architecture with a tremendous location.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Late May to early July, September

TIME IT TAKES

Two days plus

HIGHLIGHTS

Debed canyon is richly green, well watered and densely wooded; it is a lovely place to walk, either along the shady riverbed or the canyon rim.

Sanahin Monastery - the mossy complex of church, shadowy chapels, ancient graves open archways and scattered khatchkars is bewitching.

Haghpat Monastery - the extensive walled complex, built in the 12th century. includes bell tower. library refectory and chapel as well as the fine main church. The views over the canyon are superb.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Some of the walking can be muddy.

Hotels in Yerevan

Kullu Valley Trek

2011-12-29T18:33:00.004Z

The Kullu Valley in the northern state of Himachal Pradesh is far removed from the stereotype of India as a country of heat and dust. For many Westerners the valley is merely part of the hippy trail, but to Indians it is a highly productive agricultural area. Freshened by the glacial waters of the Beas River, the valley is home to a major apple-growing industry and is flanked by paddy fields during the monsoon season and wheat fields for the remainder of the year. With conifers and rhododendrons lining the upper slopes, the Kullu Valley is one of the most sumptuous parts of India.

Several operators offer guided tours tailored to meet all requirements and abilities, but a better experience may be gained by hiring a cook and a guide in Manali and venturing out in a smaller group. Engaging locals ensures that you will see the best the area has to offer. Since travelling in nearby Kashntir has become too dangerous, more people are choosing the Kullu Valley as a safer option. However it is still possible to escape the crowds at higher elevations, where you can enjoy the fresh pine forests and the stunning mountain scenery.

Walking over mountain passes and between remote villages, you cannot help but be struck by the beauty of the area. At the higher altitudes craggy outcrops replace the lush vegetation and the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas frame every scene. There are hot springs to warm you and mountain streams to cool you down. The area is also a hive of outdoor activity, including rock climbing, skiing, rafting and paragliding.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Best from April to June or September and October

TIME IT TAKES

Allow three weeks to explore the whole valley.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Dhoongri Temple - a magnificent wooden structure near Manali.

The charming little village of Jagatsukh - a perfect place to stop for a while.

Old Manali. with its stone and timber buildings.

The hot sulphur springs at the scenic village of Vashisht.

The views from the Rohtang Pass at 3915 m (12845 ft).

YOU SHOULD KNOW

A reasonable degree of fitness is required to attempt the higher passes of the Kullu Valley. Weather conditions can deteriorate rapidly, so allow extra time when tackling the more difficult stretches of the trek.

Hotels in Himachal Pradesh

Crossing the Lake Komani

2011-12-29T17:57:00.004Z

Lake Komani was formed when the River Drin was dammed in 1970 as part of a huge hydroelectric scheme. It winds, fjord-like, from the huge Vau i Dejax dam near Shkodra to the Fierza Dam. The memorable ferry ride is the best way to reach the remote and spectacular Tropoja region - the road is dreadful. From Tirana a minibus leaves to link with the RORO ferry and continues to Bajram Curri from Bregluna at the Fierza end; the return trip leaves early next day.

Another ferry plying the waters is the local waterbus, a ramshackle-looking craft created by welding an old bus onto a hull. This takes about four hours - twice as long as the car ferry - but it provides links for the remote dwellings of the lake and offers a unique insight into the life of the area. A night in Shkodra (old Scutari) makes catching this early ferry bus possible. This interesting old city was, under Ottoman rule, the largest town in Albania; it is still predominantly Muslim, and very traditional.

The road to the ferry station - about 35 km (22 mi) follows the river valley and passes through a narrow tunnel. The ferry journey is superb, following the twists and turns of the lake whose deep, still, jade-green waters reflect the precipitous tree-clad gorges. In places the deciduous woods have been cleared, the ground terraced to allow those whose homes are clustered high above the lake to scratch a living. Bajram Curd is a windy, ugly little town set in magnificent scenery. Named after a key figure in the liberation of Albania from Ottoman rule, it is a good base for exploring the huge lakes and towering mountains of this otherwise inaccessible area.

HOW

By boat

WHEN TO GO

June to September

TIME IT TAKES

At least two days

HIGHLIGHTS

Shkodra - Rozafa Castle, a medieval Venetian fortress high above the confluence of three rivers.

The Phototheque a selection of photographs from a huge 19th century archive, a unique record of Northern Albania.

An easy trip from Bajram Curri is to lovely valbona valley with its plunging waterfalls.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Catering on the ferry is rudimentary.

The tunnel to the ferry is unlit, mud-roofed and often flooded.

Hotels in Shkodra

Cheasepeake Bay Bridge Tunnel

2011-12-29T17:52:00.004Z

There's a toll to pay, but it's well worth it for the pleasure of driving along 'The East Coast's Scenic Shortcut' - US Highway 13 across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (CBBT) from Virginia's Eastern Shore at Cape Charles to the mainland at Virginia Beach near Norfolk (or vice versa!). The CBBT was opened in 1964 and forms part of the East Coast's Ocean Highway from Florida to New York.

It is a dramatic 37 km (23-mi) crossing of Chesapeake Bay utilizing bridges and tunnels, the latter requiring artificial islands as portals, that is both a travel convenience and major tourist attraction. The actual water crossing over this ocean strait is some 28 km (17 mi) long and has been described as "one of the seven engineering wonders of the modern world".

This four-lane highway crossing has replaced a passenger and vehicle ferry service that ran from the 1930s and was by the 1960s offering around a hundred daily crossings with large ferries. The CBBT consists of low-level trestle bridges connected by two tunnels beneath shipping lanes, then two high-level bridges over two other navigation channels. The motorist and passengers mainly have a view of the Atlantic seascape during the crossing, but the bridges do curve to give views of other sections of the CBBT and there are usually plenty of ships to be seen, often including US Navy warships. One novel option is making the crossing by night (perhaps a return journey after a daylight trip?), which offers a fascinating light show. And as a bonus, if you do decide to return within 24 hours, the toll is more than halved!

HOW

By car

WHEN TO GO

Any time of year.

TIME IT TAKES

Half an hour one-way (without stops).

HIGHLIGHTS

Fisherman Island at the entrance to the Bay - a barrier island traversed by US-13 that is part of a National Wildlife Refuge, the habitat of varied waterfowl, shorebirds and waterbirds.

The Scenic Overlook on the tip of Virginia's Eastern Shore, for the perfect spot to admire (and photograph) this engineering marvel.

A quick tour of the Atlantic marshes and the unspoiled countryside of Northampton County on the Eastern Shore.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The reason it's CBBT rather than plain CBB is that the us Navy feared that accident or hostile action would collapse a bridge-only crossing, thus trapping its Atlantic fleet in Norfolk Navy Base.

Hotels in Virginia

London to Australia

2011-12-29T00:08:00.004Z

Since hippies were invented (and gap years became popular), the scenic route from London to Australia has been well trodden by itchy feet. Of course it can be flown in a mere 22 hours, but the scenic overland route is a lot more fun - either going alone or with an organized group. A classic journey involves travelling from London (by public · transport or hitchhiking) through France, Belgium, Germany, the Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, East Timor and (finally!) on to Darwin, Alice Springs, Adelaide and Sydney.

The beauty of travelling alone or with a few companions is the fact that there are almost infinite possibilities for varying the route and taking interesting side trips - indeed, an essential part of this rewarding experience is remaining flexible and seeing where the fickle finger of fate points. However, there are also advantages in joining a pre-arranged bus trip. This choice is good for anyone who has a fum schedule to keep, as arrival is guaranteed after a set period (usually three months), or worries about being on the road alone.

It is also ideal for those who enjoy being part of a like-minded group, sharing chores, laughs, companionship and anything else that occurs en route. Also, the itinerary will be planned to provide the maximum number of highlights, incluiling exotic places like the Mount Everest base camp that might not be easy for lone travellers to reach. The ease of group travel must be set against the loss of freedom to play it by ear and stay or go on as the mood dictates, which many regard as the very essence of this adventurous journey from the top to the bottom of the world. But whichever way you choose it will be the experience of a lifetime.

HOW

By bus/train/boat

WHEN TO GO

Any time

TIME IT TAKES

Three to six months depending on stops along the way.

HIGHLIGHTS

Dracula's Castle in the Transylvanian Mountains of Romania - once the home of fearsome Vlad the Impaler.

Tabriz in the north of Iran - a city of stunning blue mosques and the sort of lively bazaars that are such an essential part of the journey.

World-famous Bagan in Myanmar (formerly Burma) - once capital of the powerful Burmese Empire, featuring literally thousands of amazing temples.

Approaching journey's end - Uluru (formerly Ayers Rock) near Alice Springs in the centre of Australia.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

A certain element of pre-planning is required - many countries require visas that cannot be obtained upon arrival.

Mole National Park

2011-12-29T00:05:00.005Z

Mole, an immense, remote tract of wooded savannah in northeast Ghana, is home to a huge range of animals (over 90 species including elephants, baboons, warthogs and antelope) and birds (300 species recorded, from tiny bee-eaters to vultures and eagles). However, its tourist potential is unrealized - 95 per cent of its area is unvisited even by rangers, which has allowed regular poaching. The game-viewing circuit is limited to a few miles of poor roads around the southeast corner.

The area is best seen on foot and, unusually, most visitors arrive by public transport. The daily bus from Tamale (four to six hours west by dirt road) comes right into the Park. This is a crowded, dusty uncomfortable ride, with frequent breakdowns, but it is regarded as a memorable part of the Mole experience. Mole Motel, where the bus journey ends, is the only place to stay. The buildings are old and basic, the accommodation far from luxurious, the water supply erratic, but its situation, high on a steep escarpment above the savarmah, is superb, affording views of the untouched wilderness landscape, the glorious sunsets and of two waterholes and the animals which gather there to drink.

Outside the hotel grounds, walkers must be accompanied by armed rangers (rifles protect against poachers, not big cats - lions have not been observed for some time), The hotel runs 'walking safaris' in the early morning (cooler) and late afternoon, when more animals may be seen. These guided walks allow close-range observation of wildlife and can be tailored to the needs of the group.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

November to February

TIME IT TAKES

Walks last three hours. Four days would allow for getting there and away and time to enjoy the Park.

HIGHLIGHTS

The animals - particularly elephants bathing in the waterhole - they can be approached to within a few yards.

The birds - Mole has the longest bird checklist in Ghana. Even hardened birdwatchers are thrilled by the colourful, exotic and rare specimens.

The sounds of the savannah at night.

The staff canteen at the safari office serves traditional Ghanaian food.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Closed shoes are mandatory for guided walks.

Tsetse flies can be a nuisance on the plain; carry netting to cover head and shoulders.

The Tea Road

2011-12-29T00:01:00.004Z

One of the smallest African countries, Swaziland, under its king Mswati III, has a strong sense of pride; the King represents and maintains the traditional way of life. This is an absolute monarchy and the power and clan links of the still highly revered King are perhaps the basis of Swaziland's continued stability. Many Swazis wear traditional robes and the high points of the year are the lncwala, the sacred ceremony of kingship and the Umhlanga, performed by the country's maidens.

The superb scenery of this relaxed and friendly country ranges from rainforest and savannah scrub to jagged mountains and high veld. Originally set aside for the royal hunt, several of the excellent game and nature reserves owe their existence to the monarch and this is one of the best areas to see rhinos, despite poaching. Happily, the King is on the side of the conservationists.

The Tea Road makes a good scenic circular tour for travellers with limited time. It is named after a failed project to establish tea plantations. The route runs north from the main road from Mbabane, climbing into the Mzdzimba Range, the burial place of the kings. The ridge provides a panoramic view of the beautiful Royal Valley, Ezulwini. At its centre, the town of Lobamba contains the palace, parliament and the royal kraal, where the King participates in the two magnificent annual ceremonies. A boulder marked gravel road crosses the mountains through Swazi villages and descends to the Malkerne Valley, a lovely area famous for skilled craftwork. North of the country road back towards Mbabne, the mountainous Miliwane Wildlife Sanctuary has a variety of wildlife and good walks.

HOW

By 4x4

WHEN TO GO

May, June and October

TIME IT TAKES

One day

HIGHLIGHTS

The view from Mdzimba includes Sheba's Breasts, twin peaks traditionally the site of King Solomon's Mines.

Even businessmen wear emahiya, the traditional dress of Swaziland.

The cultural festivals are an extraordinary spectacle.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The gravel roads are often very steep and impassable during the rainy season.

Monteverde Cloud Forest

2011-12-28T23:58:00.002Z

Bathed in a curtain of life-giving mist, the Monteverde Cloud Forest in the mountains of Costa Rica is a profusion of saturated greenery that stands as an icon of modern day conservation. Originally founded by Quakers fleeing the draft in 1960s America, this privately owned reserve has now been expanded to cover over 10500 hectares (26000 acres).

With altitudes ranging between 600 m and 1800 m (1970 and 5900 ft), the Forest Preserve is one of the most flourishing biological sanctuaries in the world. Over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, 120 species of amphibians and reptiles, and 2500 species of plants, as well as tens of thousands of insect species reside within its borders. In addition, larger animal species including the jaguar, ocelot, resplendent quetzal and baird's tapir inhabit the Preserve's boundaries.

The reserve is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace and a boat trip on the adjacent Lake Arenal is a good way to get your bearings. From there it is possible to join a guided horseback trek around the lake's shores and on to Monteverde. From this vantage point you can marvel at the myriad of colours that surrounds you, whilst the sounds and scents of this most luscious of environments fills every sense. This area is a true haven for wildlife to flourish, protected from humans. It provides scientists with a great natural field station as well as delivering a wonderful, natural utopia for the more casual tourist to enjoy.

HOW

By boat and on horseback

WHEN TO GO

Year-round - though quieter from October to March.

TIME IT TAKES

A combined boat and horseback trip takes around 5 hours.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Butterfly Garden

The Orchid Garden

The World of Insects

The Monteverde Serpentarium

YOU SHOULD KNOW

If travelling with a guide ask for testimonials or get a recommendation from the local tourist authority, as some operators can be less than scrupulous. Make sure that the horses you ride look healthy and that the guide keeps to well-trodden paths.

Hotels in Costa Rica

Trail to Volcan Baru

2011-12-28T23:55:00.001Z

Volcan Baru forms the focal point of a sumptuous National Park that shares its name. The highest point in Panama, it has become a Mecca for outdoor adventurers, bird-watchers and nature lovers of all kinds. It is quite probable that your first view of this 3474 m (11398 ft) high iconic symbol of the Central American rainforest will be fleeting, as the summit is usually shrouded in cloud. This is an important consideration when planning a climb and an early morning start is vital in order to maximize your chances of enjoying good views from the top.

When the clouds clear, those who do make this arduous climb are greeted by the most wondrous of sights. A magnificent carpet of green lies before you, framed by the azure waters of both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Because of the volcano's height and isolation, this area is considered a bioclimatic island. Its forest is home to distinctive species of orchids and rare flora such as magnolia and giant oak trees, some of which are over 800 years old. You'll also see wild bamboo gardens and gigantic, knotted trees dripping with vines and sprouting prehistoric-looking bromeliads from their stems.

The rainforest also provides a home to over 200 species of bird, the most notable of which is the resplendent quetzal, whose extraordinary beauty puts it in the number-one spot on many bird-watchers lists. Other rare birds here include the silky flycatcher, the three-wattled bellbird, and the hairy woodpecker. In higher reaches, an intermittent cloud forest creates an eerie ambience. All said, it is a wonderful place to hike and inunerse yourself in untamed beauty, but come prepared, with waterproof outerwear and shoes and a dry change of clothes just in case.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Year round - it's almost deserted between November and March.

TIME IT TAKES

Allow a full day - 6 hours up, 4 hours down.

HIGHLIGHTS

The sounds of the jungle.

The misty forest.

EI Respingo - a bird-watcher's paradise, nearby.

The surrounding National Park.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

In 2007 the volcano was the scene of one of the most astonishing stories of endurance when the only survivor of a plane crash, a 12-year-old girl, was found, injured but alive after spending two nights alone in the jungle.

Hotels in Panama

Canoe Down the Yukon River

2011-12-28T19:01:00.003Z

Starting at Whitehorse near the border with northern British Columbia, this 580 km (362 mi) canoe trip down the Yukon should only be undertaken by the most experienced of adventurers. Even the name of the river conjures up images of the frontier, and this journey takes you through early Canadian history as the river propels you on your way. So harsh is this enviromnent that forward plarming is a must. Sudden storms can cause long delays and the area is home to around 5000 grizzly bears, so great care needs to be taken when setting up camp.

Such is the power of the Yukon, which is fed by melting ice, that it is possible to cover great distances in one day. The spectacular Lake Lebarge offers a good target for your first stop. 48 lan (30 mi) long and on average 5 km (3.1 mi) wide, the lake offers the most challenging of paddles. Almost benign on a caw day, it can without much warning turn in to a bubbling cauldron and pose great danger to both man and canoe.

Once through the lake, the river gathers pace and takes you past abandoned wood yards and gold-mining settlements - a reminder of the folly of yesteryear, when the lure of potential wealth brought many to the region. Carmacks, some 350 km (219 mi) into the trip, offers the first opportunity to stock up and this cute little town of 500 even has a couple of hotels and restaurants. The snow-covered mountains, shining in the midnight sun, frame the river as it runs fast towards the Arctic Circle and your final destination, Dawson City.

HOW

By canoe

DEPART

Whitehorse, YT

WHEN TO GO

When the ice has melted - late June to early September.

TIME IT TAKES

Sixteen to 20 days, allowing for delays caused by bad weather.

HIGHLIGHTS

Fort Selkirk - a renovated pioneer and First Nations settlement.

The abandoned settlement at Hottalinqua.

The vibrant colours of the glacial melt waters.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Whilst bears pose little danger to humans, you should be aware that you are entering their domain. It is important to keep all food tied up above ground and if you see bears leave the area immediately.

Hotels in Whitehorse

Luxembourg City Walk

2011-12-28T18:58:00.001Z

This was one of many tiny fiefdoms that made up the jigsaw of medieval Europe, and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg has retained its independence to this day. At its heart is the old part of Luxembourg City, once a mighty fortress. Most of the defensive walls were demolished in the 19th century, but the impressive ramparts that remain are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The defensive qualities that made Luxembourg so important in the Middle Ages are based on its location - high above two rocky gorges at the confluence of the Rivers Alzette and Pétrusse. These narrow valleys are up to 70 m (230 ft) deep and spanned by many bridges and viaducts that connect the 24 quarters of this complicated place, which perches atop crags and spills down into the depths. This is also a city of green spaces, at dramatic odds with its bustling streets and squares.

An ideal way to appreciate the unique combination of the city's heritage and natural beauty is to take the well-signed Wenzel Walk - a circular stroll around the oldest areas that is boldly billed as 'a thousand years in a hundred minutes'. This journey through European history focuses on the defensive stronghold at the heart of the old city, begirming at the historic Bock Promontory where Count Siegfried built his castle in the 10th century.

It then visits the Chemin de la Corniche, old city gates, the Wenzel defensive wall, medieval bridges, the Alzette Valley with its medieval waterside buildings and explores extraordinary Spanish and French military works. There are frequent information boards that put the sights along the way into context, or it is possible to take a guided tour. As a bonus, the Wengel Walk not only delivers fascinating insight into Luxembourg's heritage, but also stunning scenic panoramas from commanding vantage points.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

Less than two hours

HIGHLIGHTS

An informative visitor centre in the archaeological crypt beneath Bock Promontory and the Jacob Tower.

The red sandstone Castle Bridge, built in 1735 - providing access to the Bock Promontory both on the surface and beneath the ground.

The splendidly fortified Rham Plateau with its defensive towers and gates.

A warren of underground casements and tunnels hewn into the solid rock by Spanish and French engineers in the 17th and 18th centuries.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Wenzel Walk is named after a 14th-century ruler. Duke Wenceslas II, many of whose ambitious fortifications may still be seen.
Hotels in Luxembourg City

Lofoten Islands

2011-12-28T18:53:00.004Z

A cycling vacation along the Vestfjord route is a most memorable experience - new, breathtaking sights appear around every bend. Combining ferry trips with cycling, this route serves up almost everything Norway has to offer. White sandy beaches butt up against soaring mountain scenery. Archaeological relics and historical buildings satisfy those who seek more cultural pursuits, whilst for the more active there is ample opportunity to swim, hike or fish.

Idyllic little villages of brightly painted wooden houses line the route as you travel from island to island. It is easy to see why locals describe this area as the real Norway and the archipelago features prominently in Nordic art, film and literature. To cover the full 450 lan (281 mi) would be to undertake a journey of epic proportions; however good transport links make it possible to get to almost any part of the trail quickly.

Old market centres such as Lovoy and Grotoy have been faithfully restored, whilst Steigen is a real hidden gem, teeming with innumerable historical relics. Those who seek more adventure should explore the cave system at Nordskot, whilst those looking for a more sedate outdoor experience can soak up the sun on the wonderful white sandy beaches near Misten. The Vestfjord really does have something for everyone. All you need is a bicycle, good waterproofs, a ferry timetable and a spirit of exploration, and a new adventure awaits you around every corner.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

May to September provides the best weather.

TIME IT TAKES

Around two weeks for the whole route.

HIGHLIGHTS

Tranoy Lighthouse - a fine example and open to visitors.

Steigen Fortidspark - where the past is re-enacted.

Raftsund - a narrow strait between Hinnoya and Austvagoya.

The Stone Age settlements and ruined boathouses on Gimsoya.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Forward planning is required to make the most of this trip. Although the ferries are reliable. the faster services take you to the most crowded sections. If you wish to leave the beaten track it may require taking two or more of the less frequent services.

Hotels in Lofoten Islands

Tren a las Nubes

2011-12-28T18:32:00.004Z

Built in the 1940s, the Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) is the third highest railway in the world. It is worth travelling along for the sheer technical wizardry of the railway line itself, quite apart from the mind-blowing terrain it goes through on its skyward journey. American engineer Richard Fontaine Maury designed the track so that an engine could pull a train up the mountains by its own power alone without needing the conventional mechanism of a cog-and-pinion rackrail.

The resulting train journey is a thrilling 220 km (136 mi) zigzag switchback ride crossing some of most complex topography on the planet by means of 13 viaducts, 29 bridges and 21 tunnels. There are two huge loops along the route where the track virtually doubles back on itself in order to gain height and you feel that you have been given a front row circle seat over the world as you gaze down from vertiginous mountain heights. From the sub-tropical colonial city of Salta, the train travels up the Lerma Valley passing quaint mud-built villages and red-flowering ceibo trees as it heads into the Quebrada del Toro (Bull's Gorge) and across the rocky salt desert canyons of the Andes - the little-known lands of the Diaguita Indians.

Awesome rock formations, blasted into grotesque shapes by aeons of erosion, appear in a kaleidoscopic whirl of colour where the earth has been tinted by rich veins of mineral ore - vivid shades of red, yellow, pink, green and orange. The train stops along the way so that you can wander around in this strange land on your way to the altiplano copper-mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres. Here, standing at 4230 m (13900 ft) on the Polvorilla Viaduct among-the snow-capped peaks, you will find the clouds really are drifting beneath your feet.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

Seven to eight hours

HIGHLIGHTS

Salta - a beautifully preserved colonial city.

Puerta Tastil- ruins and rock paintings.

The Loop - vertiginous mountain views.

La Polvorilla Viaduct - a masterpiece of engineering, 224 m (735 ft) long and 63 m (206 ft) high.

The condors flying above, and the clouds below.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Tren a las Nubes is a once-weekly heritage tourist train with stops en route, guides, viewing cars, and folk music. You can cover the same route on the cargo train that goes from Salta to Chile or in a 4X4 along National Route 51.

Hotels in Salta

Brittany's Emerald Coast

2011-12-28T18:11:00.004Z

Brittany is a jewel in France's coastal crown, as the soubriquet 'Emerald Coast' suggests. The Breton coast is a wonderland of cliffs and seascapes, magical islands and estuaries, beaches and coves, fishing villages and ports ... and a gastronomic delight for lovers of seafood and rich regional cuisine. It's possible to spend a lifetime exploring this endless coastline but an excellent introduction to the sort of delights to be found is provided by a round-trip cycle ride from Saint Malo via Dinan to Dinard and back. This offers excellent seascapes, sandy coves, fishing villages and (as a bonus) some lush Breton countryside.

The easy journey (no steep hills!) starts beside the River Rance at Saint Malo (cycle hire available), setting off in an easterly direction along the D201 coast road that hangs above the sea, through Rotheneuf to Cancale - the picturesque fishing village famed for its delicious oysters. From there, head south to Les Portes Rouges and pick up the D155 - the spectacular Rue du Bord de Mer that hugs the coast to Le-Vivier-sur-Mer. Stay with the D155 as it turns south to Dol-de-Bretagne, then turn onto the D676 and ride to the walled town of Dinan, high above the River Rance. This last stretch provides an opportunity to enjoy rolling Breton countryside, as does the next.

From Dinan, take the D2 through La Hamonais to Ploubalay, where the D786 returns you to the coast at Lancleuc, from whence the road follows the sea to the Belle Epoque resort of Dinard, the 'Cannes of the north', via the charming fishing villages of La Chapelie and Saint-Lunaire. A ferry across the mouth of the Rance completes the scenic circuit to Saint Malo. Appetite whetted, you'll surely be back to see more of the Emerald Coast next year!

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

It can be done in a day, if you're not tempted to linger along the way (you will be).

HIGHLIGHTS

Saint Malo - this dramatic walled port City is worth a day of anyone's time, with many splendid sights to see, including Chateau Saint Malo, Cathedral de st Vincent and the Solidor Tower.

Dinan - for historic attractions including the Chateau Dinan, Duchess Anne's Tower, the 13th-century Jacobins Theatre. St Saviour's Basilica and the flamboyant Gothic I'eglise de St Malo.

A side-trip from Dinan to the grand Chateau de la Bourbansais with its wonderful garden and appealing zoo that nurtures endangered species.

A treacherous skip across from Brittany into Normandy to visit one of France's most famous attractions - the Benedictine abbey and medieval dwellings of Mont St Michel.

Hotels in Brittany

The Source of the Ganges

2011-12-13T11:59:00.001Z

There are times while making the climb towards the source of the Ganges when you wonder whether the two-day trek to Gaumukh from Gangothri is really worth it. As you climb up the steep hills, your mind is more focused on the ascent than on the astounding mountain scenery. But the Ganges is no ordinary river and to view its source is to witness the birth of the earthly manifestation of a god. It is said that the goddess Ganga was sent down to earth after a heavenly feud, that her descent was broken by Lord Shiva's matted locks and that she finally reached earth as seven streams.

The forbiddingly beautiful Shivling Mountain hangs 6543 m (21470 ft) above the blue-green Gangotri Glacier, which marks the emergence of this great river. When looking at the Ganges here in its purest state it's hard to imagine how mighty and muddy this holiest of rivers will become downstream. To journey down it is not only to follow the path of a geographical feature, but also to look deep into the heart and soul of India. Millions come to her to wash their bodies and to wash away their sins. Rivers are central to Hindu culture and they play pivotal roles in life and death; this trip takes you through some of India's most significant holy places.

After journeying back to Gangotri you can travel by road to the hallowed cities of Rishikesh, Haridwar, Garh-Mukteswar and Prayag, before finally arriving at the most sacred city in India - Varanasi. Once there, the true significance of this great river becomes apparent, as worshippers line its steps and magnificent temples, forming a procession along the riverbanks. Few rivers, if any, are granted such high status and the sheer power of the Ganges to draw you and thousands of others towards it is awe-inspiring.

HOW

On foot and by car

TIME IT TAKES

Seven to ten days

WHEN TO GO

April to July

HIGHLIGHTS

The sight of :he breathtakingly beautiful azure Gangotri Glacier.

The temple at Mukteshwar Mahadeva - a shrine to the goddess Ganga.

Dashashwamedh Ghat adjacent to the Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi.

The Golden Temple - a focal point in Varanasi.

The shopping area of Vishwanath Lane in Varanasi.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

To Hindus this journey is a pilgrimage of huge religious significance, Be mindful of the fact that there are restrictions on footwear, photography and even the presence of women in certain buildings. If you are not of the Hindu faith then it is always advisable to ask whether you can enter temples and shrines.

Hotels in Varanasi

The Mantario Trail

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Located 150 km (94 mi) east of Winnipeg in Manitoba, The Mantario Trail has become a magnet for seasoned hikers, mountain bikers and skiers alike. Running along part of the Canadian Shield, this most inviting of trails offers dramatic views at every turn. The landscape consists of imposing rocky outcrops, marshes, lakes, rivers, beaver dams and forest. The area is also replete with wildlife and muskrat, snapping turtles, black bear, coyote and wolf are common. Look skywards and it is likely that you will see bald eagles or turkey vultures circling.

A large portion of the 63 km (39 mi) trail is a dedicated Wilderness Zone, where hunting and motorized vehicles are forbidden. This gives the whole hiking experience a pedestrian feel in the best sense of the word, with only the sound of the wildlife, the wind through the trees and the sound of your step breaking the silence. Each stage of the hike takes you up and along granite ridges, which offer wonderful panoramic views of lakes and gullies.

Variety is the watchword for this well maintained trail. Spruce, balsam, jack pine and white birch all thrive here, giving the forest a wonderfully diverse feel. Overseen by the Manitoba Naturalists Society, this is a perfect family hike. Campgrounds are plentiful and in good order and the huge variety of outdoor activities should keep all happy. The fact that vehicular access is confined to the north and south trailheads adds to the sense of being alone with nature. Once you have unloaded the car, it is just you, the landscape and the abundant flora and fauna.

HOW

On foot, by bike, or on skis in the winter.

DEPART

150 km (94 mi) east of Winnipeg, MB

WHEN TO GO

All year round depending on which activity you choose. Hiking is best between May and October.

TIME IT TAKES

Allow a full week to explore the whole trail.

HIGHLIGHTS

Caddy Lake - a gathering point for wildlife and hikers alike.

Camping in the backcountry near Mantario Lake.

The spectacular fall (September/October) colours of this splendidly diverse woodland.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

You need to be reasonably fit to complete the trail. It is probably not suitable for children under 12. Spring (March/April) can bring difficult underfoot conditions as the snows melt, requiring a little ingenuity to cross certain sections.

Hotels in Manitoba

The Incense Road

2011-12-13T11:24:00.001Z

The wealth of the ancient kingdoms of Yemen depended on trade in frankincense and myrrh, highly valued throughout the civilised world. Part of the overland Incense Road, which stretched through Arabia to the Mediterranean, passes through several historically important places in Yemen, which owed their power to taxes from the enormous camel caravans. Before making this journey now, check with the authorities - access to some areas of Yemen is restricted or prohibited.

Yemen's capital, Sana'a (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) has one of the oldest intact medinas in the Arab world, a jumble of mosques, markets and unique tower houses. From Sana'a the road climbs through the mountains and descends to the eastern desert where, in the 8th century BC, a huge dam was built in what became known as Wadi as-Stidd (Wadi of the Dam) and the city of Ma'rib became capital of the Kingdom of Saba. The kingdom fell, the incense trade declined, the dam collapsed. Temples sunk in the desert and the empty mud brick towers of Old Ma'rib are all that survive, though a new dam and oil finds offer new prosperity.

The old city of Shabwa lies across the Ramlat as Sab'atayn desert. From the hill, where its remains are engulfed by sand and salt, a dramatic panorama covers the eastern end of the mighty Wadi Hadramawt, the largest wadi in the Middle East, named for the ancient people who first inhabited it. The fertile main valley extends 160 km (100 mi) westward; its main town Sayun is an ancient caravan-route market town, with beautiful mosques, fine mud-brick buildings - and an airport. At the Wadi's heart lies Shibam, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, a compact walled city tightly packed with hundreds of five to seven storey medieval mud brick tower houses.

HOW

By car

WHEN TO GO

March to June, October and November

TIME IT TAKES

3 days plus

HIGHLIGHTS

Sana'a's towers have lower storeys of dark basalt, upper of reddish brick; the top floors are mud-plastered, often whitewashed, the facades decorated with white patterns.

The 'Palace' hotels in Sana'a - these converted tower houses have traditional interiors and views over the city including the hidden network of walled gardens.

A day or two spent exploring the Wadi Hadramawt and the pretty villages, mosques, tombs and historical sites scattered over its tributaries.

The first sight of Shibam, the 'Manhattan of the desert', rising from the valley.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Check government guidelines on travel in Yemen.

Riviera Day Train

2011-12-13T01:36:00.001Z

The ancient city of Genoa is situated on the Ligurian Sea, on Italy's northern coast, not far from the border with France. Taking the train along the Italian and French Rivieras has been a classic journey ever since the railway arrived in the late 1800s. Prior to that, the coastline was largely unknown to the wider world, but the railway brought an influx of foreign visitors, including European royalty and artists who came for the climate, the lovely scenery and the clear, sharp quality of the light.

To best enjoy the trip, make sure you find a seat on the left side of the train, so your view of the dazzling green-blue sea is uninterrupted. The windows on the right look out mainly at high walls and lines of drying laundry. The train is heavily used, by people going to work, school or college, as well as by day-trippers and more serious travellers, and it stops at every little station along the way. From the windows you will see the gorgeous Mediterranean countryside, decked with flowering shrubs and palm trees swaying in the warm breeze. At Ventimiglia, close to the border, there's an addictive Friday morning market, which many French people come to each week - an easy jaunt as there are no border controls here.

Once in France, the famous towns of the Riviera come thick and fast, in an almost continuous line - gawp at Monte Carlo, home to the famous casino and principal town of the tiny, sovereign state of Monaco, its harbour bursting with millionaires' yachts. The train passes in and out of dark tunnels, making you blink each time you emerge into the golden sunlight. Look out for Eze, perched 400 m (1300 ft) high above the sea, Beaulieu-sm-Mer, Villefranche and finally, Nice, the undisputed Queen of the Cote d'Azur.

HOW

By train

WHEN TO GO

From September to June to avoid the high season crowds.

TIME IT TAKES

Roughly three hours, but these trains are notoriously late.

HIGHLIGHTS

Genoa - historic centre, the largest in Europe.

The aquarium. the second largest in Europe.

Nice - the Cours Saleya Flower market and the Matisse Museum.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Genoa boasts many famous sons, including three popes, Christopher Columbus, the composer Niccolo Paganini and the 2002 Nobel Prize winner for Physics, Riccardo Giaccomo.

Hotels in Genoa and Nice

River Lena Cruise

2011-12-12T13:28:00.001Z

A voyage along the River Lena is an eye-opening cultural and ecological adventure, taking you to the shores of the Arctic Ocean through a vast tract of virgin territory, only recently opened to tourists. From its source in the Baikal Mountains of Central Asia, the Lena flows for 4400 km (2800 mi) through Siberia. It is among the ten longest rivers in the world, a huge waterway, up to 25 km (15 mi) wide, that is an indispensable transport route through the inaccessible Sakha Republic (Yakutia).

This sparsely populated region of northeastern Siberia contains the largest area of permafrost in the world - where deep-frozen woolly mammoths have been uncovered, perfectly preserved. For most of the year it is a silent frozen land wrapped in snow and darkness, but come spring, a magical transformation takes place - the ice thaws, the river flows and the tundra suddenly bursts into life with an exuberance of leaf, blossom and birdsong.

In the 17th century, the first Cossack adventurers to sail along the Lena discovered a wilderness inhabited by semi-nomadic horsemen, cattle breeders and reindeer herdsmen. Today, little has changed. You voyage through a timeless land of desolate beauty and awesome space, completely forgotten by the march of mankind; disembarking at picturesque riverside villages, you will observe the fascinating world of a self-contained shamanic folk culture. As you approach the Arctic Ocean, the huge river starts to break up into an increasingly complex labyrinth of channels, islands and streams as it gradually spreads into a 400 km (250 mi) wide delta - a 60000 sq km (37500 sq mi) lush sununer wetland, the largest nature reserve in the Russian Federation. This unique habitat is a vital breedling ground and safe haven for millions of birds, fish and sea marmnals - an ecological paradise.

HOW

By boat

WHEN TO GO

June to September

TIME IT TAKES

Six days

HIGHLIGHTS

Yakutsk - coldest city on earth.

Confluence of Vilui River - pastoral scenery for forest walks and swimming.

Zhigansk - first settlement beyond the Arctic Circle, founded in the 17th century.

Kyusyur - regional cultural centre inhabited by native hunters and reindeer farmers.

Delta wetlands.

Tiksi - strategic Arctic Ocean settlement, only accessible by boat.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Cruises start from Yakutsk. from where you can go northwards to the Arctic or southwards towards Baikal.

Each voyage is equally interesting in its own way.

Hotels in Yakutsk

Matilda Highway

2011-12-12T13:23:00.002Z

The Matilda Highway is the main north-south route through the interior of the state of Queensland. Starting in Cunnamulla, the first town after the New South Wales border, it runs for 1700 km (1060 mi) in a north and north-westerly direction until reaching the Gulf of Carpentaria at Karumba. This is a classic drive through the great Australian outback, and if you like your roads straight and empty and your vistas boundless then you will enjoy this experience. But you should be warned that the landscape can be dauntingly unvary1ng: wide open expanses of grassland and low scrub, extending for kilometre after kilometre in every direction. Only as the highway approaches the Gulf in the north does it change somewhat to feature a coastal habitat of cracked saltpans - and to become, if anything, even flatter.

Many of the key towns of the Queensland outback line the route of the Matilda. Places such as Winton, Longreach and Charleville developed in the 19th century as supply and transportation centres for the vast and isolated sheep and cattle stations that cover much of the area. The towns themselves are not large and are relaxed and easy-going places in which to spend a day or two savouring the special atmosphere of the interior.

The Highway takes its name from the region's associations with 'Waltzing Matilda', Banjo Paterson's ballad which has become Australia's unofficial national anthem. You can visit the Combo Waterhole, the supposed setting for the story, outside Kynuna on the highway south of Cloncurry. The North Gregory Hotel in Winton is where 'Waltzing Matilda' is said to have had its first performance in April 1895 (although the hotel has since been rebuilt following a fire).

HOW

By car

WHEN TO GO

April to October to avoid the extreme summer temperatures

TIME IT TAKES

Seven to ten days, allowing for one or two 'longer stops along the way.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Stockman's Hall of Fame in Longreach, a lively and comprehensive guide to the outback way of life.

The Waltzing Matilda centre in Winton.

Cloncurry, birthplace of the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Watching the sunset with a 'tinny' (beer) and a fish supper at Karumba Point - journey's end.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The distances between the various settlements along the route can be very large, so you should ensure that you always have spare fuel and plenty of water with you.

Hotels in Queensland

The Silk Road

2011-12-12T13:14:00.001Z

The wayposts of the Silk Road are a litany of adventure and romance crossing half the world. Already ancient when Marco Polo set out from 13th century Venice, the 13900 km (8700 mi) route to Kublai Khan's capital of Beijing is still fraught with the same historic dangers. War, pestilence, religious confrontation and plain banditry continue to influence travellers choices - and are the reason why the Silk Road is not one, but a series of fragmented routes which tell a collective history.

Created by trade, the Silk Road has always been even more important as a conduit for ideas. The exchange of science and technology, of philosophy, religion and artistic culture has scored a trail of monumental magnificence across two continents. Venice, Istanbul, Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, Kashgar, Urumqi, Dunhuang, Lanzhou and Xi'an stand out, but the mountain ranges, deserts, steppes, rivers and other natural obstacles between them hide a thousand treasures ranging from whole medieval cities to the most exquisite Islamic and oriental objets d'art. There are only two rules for travellers who want to make the most of the Silk Road: always expect the unexpected, and embrace cultural differences to the best of your diplomatic ability. In many ways, the present Silk Road is the legacy of Kublai Khan.

From Turkey to the China Sea he established the 'Ulak' · system of caravanserais, where travellers could rest, and his couriers could change horses (he could send a message from Beijing to Damascus and get a reply in six weeks). You find them, a Byzantine arch or a quintuple-tiered pagoda, on the horizon of mountains and deserts - and just as welcome whether you arrive on foot, by camel train or truck. Kublai Khan's 'Big Idea' always was communication between peoples - and there's no better way on earth than to chase it down the Silk Road.

HOW

Various!

WHEN TO GO

Year-round, according to which section you want to travel. A French team recently demonstrated that with meticulous planning, and travelling on horseback, you can travel the entire distance at the optimum season for each region.

TIME IT TAKES

Many agencies offer tours of one or more sections of the Silk Road, ranging from 10-23 days, and including short treks on foot and by camel. Typically, 12-14 days for sections within Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan; 14-23 days for sections within China (Kashgar, Xi'an, the Great Wall West Gate at Jiahuagan and Beijing); 15 months (Venice - Beijing. by horse). Most agencies will help you personalize their advertised tours.

HIGHLIGHTS

Riding in a camel train on the southern edge of the Taklamakan Desert.

The very rare 'Singing Sand Dune' of Moon Lake.

The maze of markets and alleyways in Kashgar, where colourful traditional dress and a myriad range of Kyrgyz, Uighur, Tajik, Kazakh and Chinese faces demonstrate its historic importance as a melting pot for trade and culture. The Sunday market draws 100000 people.

Rapa Nui Tour

2011-12-12T13:00:00.001Z

There can be few more recognizable images in the world than the mysterious stone heads and torsos on Chile's overseas territory of Easter Island, carved by the Rapa Nui people. These monumental statues are moai some of which are 10m (33 ft) tall. This remote Polynesian outpost is in the southeastern Paciftc Ocean and it's one of the world's most isolated inhabited islands, so relatively few people have seen those famous stones at first hand. Most of the island - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - is protected within the Rapa Nui National Park. There are unresolved arguments concerning the origins of the islanders and the history of the iconic moai - it is agreed that they were produced by a Stone Age culture, painstakingly carved with basalt chisels.

After flying in to the grandly named Mataveri International Airport, it is possible to rent a 4x4 and make a comprehensive tour of Rapa Nui. This small island was deforested long before the first Europeans visited in the 18th century and is now mainly open grassland, but there is much to see. There is a single circular road from the only settlement, Hanga Roa in the southwest of the island, but there are also many dirt roads that allow a complete tour.

It is impossible not to be deeply moved by the sense of timeless history in this extraordinary place. Most of the moai are located around the outside of the island, looking inwards, many of them set on beautifully constructed ahus (ceremonial platforms), but hundreds at various stages of construction remain where they were abandoned in the quarry at Rano Raraku. There are also caves such as Ana Tai Tangata with red-and-white bird paintings. And it's all set in an atmospheric landscape dominated by three volcanic peaks.

HOW

By 4x4

WHEN TO GO

Any time of year

TIME IT TAKES

Two days to explore the island.

HIGHLIGHTS

Two Windows Cave - accessed through a narrow passage that opens out into a cavern with two tunnel-like openings that run out to the cliff face above the sea.

Relaxing on Anakena Beach with its white sand and warm turquoise - plus the Ahu Nau Nau with its seven moai.

Ahu Tongariki, where 15 moai stand in line on their platform looking out to sea - the only ones to do so.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Countless horses roam unchecked all over the island - there are nearly as many horses as people!

Hotels in Easter Island

Abel Tasman Coast Track

2011-12-12T12:47:00.001Z

The Abel Tasman National Park on the north shores of the South Island is in the Golden Bay area. It contains one of the country's 'Great Walks' - the Abel Tasman Coast Track. This 51 km (32 mi) hike is officially described as an 'easy tramping track', but the usual proviso about going equipped to deal with the weather's notorious mood swings holds good. The Coast Track runs from Marahau to Wainui through wild and stllIlIli:ng coastal scenery, of which New Zealand has an almost indecent abundance. It crosses numerous watercourses and estuaries along the way. Rivers and streams are bridged, but some estuaries can only be crossed for an hour or two either side of low tide, and both bridges and estuaries can become impassable after heavy rain.

As the name suggests, the Coastal Track follows the sea, though often detouring inland to cross saddles that separate bays, sometimes losing sight of the sea altogether in dense forest. However, most climbs are rewarded with sensational sea and coastal views from those hard-earned vantage points. Down at sea level, there are many interesting coves to be found and estuaries to be explored, so it's best to proceed at a leisurely pace, planning an itinerary that involves overnight stops at the campsites and/or huts to be found at regular intervals (camp passes required).

The route goes from Marahau to Apple Tree Bay, Yellow Point, Torrent Bay, Anchorage Bay (hut and campsite), Bark Bay (hut and campsite), Waiharakeke Bay, Goat Bay, Skirmer Point, Totaranui (major campsite complex), Anapai Bay, Mutton Cove, Whariwharangi Bay (campsite and hut - a restored farmstead) and finally on to Wanui Inlet, where transport out is available from the car park. Enjoy (and that's a promise)!

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Any time of year.

TIME IT TAKES

Total ramping time is around 17 hours, Vlhich most people spread over three to five days.

HIGHLIGHTS

Crossing the dramatic 47 m (155 ft) suspension bridge across the Falls River.

A three-hour return side trip from Torrent Bay up to the Cascade Falls and main Falls River Falls (guess how the river got its name).

Strolling up the stony streambed from Torrent Bay Estuary to Cleopatra's pool, a crystal clear wading pool beneath a rocky cascade.

A short diversion from the Coast Track near Mutton Point to Separation Point, where fur seals breed.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The National Park is named after Abel Tasman, the 17th-century Dutchman who in the 1640s was the first European navigator to reach New Zealand - whereupon Maori
Hotels in New Zealand's South Island

Walking the Great Wall

2011-12-07T18:40:00.001Z

The Great Wall of China is over 7200 km (4500 mi) long, and so familiar that it can seem to be universal property. In fact it was built over 2000 years and consists of a network of structures reflecting China's expansion west and north. Its magnificence owes much to a breathtaking assumption about where civilization begins (or ends). Archaeologists and historians rrught choose the most remote earthworks, huge sections of which are still being revealed as far away as Gansu province, even if most people's choice of which section to walk is limited to the best preserved, if not best restored, and to the distance of those sections from major tourist hubs.

Nothing could connect you to the past more than the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD) Wall of concrete-hard reeds and mud, austere and magnificent in the wind-whipped wilderness of the Gobi Desert. Shorn of any outer brick casing, the two gateways of Yumenguan and Yangguan, near Dunhuang still bear majestic witness to imperial power as the two western gateways into 1st century China. Far fewer people walk the Wall east of Beijing. From Simatai you can follow one of the steepest and most dramatic sections through Huangyaguan, across razor-sharp mountain ridges with a watchtower on every one, to Jinshanling.

But to appreciate the culture underwriting the Wall, you need to walk the long western stretches around Datong, beyond the Beijing crowds, but crammed with rich evidence of the Ming, Han, Qin and Wei Dynasties. In fact, for anything less than fourteen days, use a car or bus to cherry-pick the Wall's greatest features from Hongcibao, Motianling, Qidun, Kouzishang and Huashijian, staying in local farmers houses alongside the Wall itself. Here, the Wall is no theme park. It feels more disused than ruined, and its threatening majesty retains all its power to shock. Sublime hiking.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Year-round - especially close to Beijing, sections of the Wall are always open to visitors. Further afield, schedules vary; but the most remote sections have no controls at all.

TIME IT TAKES

1-35 days (of which up to seven might be by car/bus, bypassing less interesting sections to walk) to get any real impression of the Wall's architectural and cultural complexity.

HIGHLIGHTS

The fortified stairways, cannon platforms and other Ming Dynasty (circa1350) military detailing close to Jinshanling (northeast of Beijing).

The only surviving wooden city gate in China, at Deshengbao (west of Beijing).

The watchtowers of Xusi and Jinpai.

The huge fort and establishment at Yanmenguan Pass near Shuozhou - one of the most strategic sites and the scene of many famouS battles.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Fortresses along the Wall had a social hierarchy reflecting the rest of society.

The preserved ruins of the biggest garrisons Include stili-existing villages or small towns that were originally established as markets for nomad traders from the other side.

Hotels in Beijing

Cappadocia Cross Country Ride

2011-12-06T18:03:00.001Z

This part of Central Anatolia is famous for bizarre scenery, underground settlements and frescoed churches. The weird 'fairy chimneys' - toadstools, cones and pleated domes - were formed by erosion of the soft, volcanic tufa; unusually - most volcanic rock is black or grey - here the colours are soft golds and reds. These easily worked rocks have always provided refuge from raids and persecution; the underground towns were probably dug in Hittite times - 1900-1200 BC - and used, extended and elaborated over the centuries.

St Paul brought Christianity to Cappadocia, though most of the cave churches are Byzantine. Caves are still used for stabling, storage and to keep pigeons; cultivation has also been continuous - the Hittites made wine, and grapes are still grown; the fertile soil also produces fruit. Many of the tourists who throng a few popular areas are day - trippers, but Cappadocia repays a longer stay.

An excellent escape from the crowds into the extraordinary landscape is on horseback; several ranches offer anything from short sunset rides to cross - country trips of a week or more. These combine riding - through fertile valleys, narrow gorges, along winding tracks among the fairy chirrmeys and over the high volcanic mesas with visits to villages and sites of interest. Time is usually allowed in Goreme, where villagers are still troglodytic, to explore the Goreme National Park, an open- air museum of many exceptional churches.

HOW

On horseback

WHEN TO GO

April to November

TIME IT TAKES

Seven days plus

HIGHLIGHTS

Enjoyable riding - the small, nimble horses are happy picking their way over rocky mule tracks or cantering along sandy valleys.

The plain exteriors of most of the rock-cut churches give no clue to the glorious interiors with Byzantine carving and superb frescoes.

The underground settlements (some home to as many as 20000): complex warrens descending many levels, with deep ventilation shafts, wells, escape routes and sealable doors.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Riding standard is intermediate: riders should be fit - most days entail 5 or 6 hours in the saddle.

Hotels in Cappadocia

Fraser Island Trek

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Anyone for the world's largest sandcastle? Sand-based Fraser Island off the southern coast of Queensland extends to 123 km (76 mi) from north to south and is 26 km (16 mi) across at the widest point. Managed by the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service as part of the Great Sandy National Park, this extraordinary place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a variety of habitats - from pristine rivers to freshwater lakes, lush subtropical rainforest to eucalypt forests, magroves to melaleuca swamps, heaths and - of course endless beaches. All are inhabited by a wealth of wildlife, including over 200 species of bird and a variety of reptile life, with migrating whales frequently spotted off shore.

The easy way to explore this popular destination is by 4X4 vehicle - or is it? Even these powerful monsters get marooned in Fraser's soft sand and a surer (if slower) way of seeing this enchanting island is to make the Fraser Island Trek - a hike that follows the continuos beach up the eastern coast with possible detours into the interior, starting at Hook Point on the island's southern tip. The first stop is Dilli Village, where accomodation can be booked in advance. From there, the hike continues to the outpost of Eurong and on to the island's main settlement, Happy Valley, where the trekker can find accomodation and replenish stores.

The onward march runs north alongside imposing cliffs called The Cathedrals that are characterized by multi-coloured layers. After Cathedral Beach Resort the route passes through Dundubara before reaching the basalt promontory of Indian Head, with superb views from the top of the headland. Many walkers end their journey soon afterwards at Orchid Beach, though determined hikers continue through awkward soft sand and around impassible rocky outcrops to the Trek's official end at Sandy Cape Lighthouse.

HOW

On foot

WHEN TO GO

Any time of year

TIME IT TAKES

Allow five days to include selected inland detours.

HIGHLIGHTS

Seeing a large number of dingoes - the purest strain left in Australia is on Fraser Island, as there has been little inter-breeding with domestic dogs.

A long side trip from Dilli - the Southern Lakes Drive covering many of the interior's best features including Lakes Boomanjin, Benaroon, Birrabeen and McKenzie with its white sand and blue water.

The rusting remains of the ocean liner Maheno, driven ashore in 1935 whilst on the way to a Japanese scrapyard.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Even when the tide is out and the beach is up to 100m (330 ft) wide, great care should be taken when crossing sometimes-treacherous creeks and rock bars.

La Rioja

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La Rioja is practically synonymous with wine. The economy of the Alavesa hills around the River Ebro has relied on wine production since Roman times and produces some of the most famous vintages in the world. The region is only 150 km (90 (mi) long and 50 km (30 mi) wide, almost completely encircled by mountains, ensuring a perfect micro-climate for grape growing. It is brilliant cycling country - kilometre upon kilometre of quiet country road, sleepy villages, historic monuments and dozens of bodegas (wineries) where you can sample the wares on your way.

Laguardia, the heart of Alavesa, is a walled medieval hill-town with 320 cellars dating back to the late 18th century. From here you cycle along the banks of the Ebro, passing the historic towns of El Ciego and San Vicente de la Sonsierra, to Haro, where the 15th century monastery has been converted into a winery. Then, skirting the Ebro, wind your way through vineyards to reach the atmospheric town of Briones, cut almost vertically into the hillside.

Many of Spain's monasteries and convents are hidden in the mountains of the Sierra de Demanda, the south-western boundary of La Rioja. Cycle southwards through the densely wooded hills and verdant grasslands of the Cardenas Valley to San Millan de la Cogola and see the World Heritage Yuso and Suso Monasteries. Go to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, beautifully situated at the foot of the highest peaks of the Sierra de Demanda, a famous stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. Finally, cycle past ancient hamlets up through the meadows of the Oja Valley to the breathtaking evergreen mountains of Ezcaray. By the end of your journey you will be sated with the combination of historic landscapes and heady wine-tastings, leaving you with many lasting memories.

HOW

By bike

WHEN TO GO

April to October

TIME IT TAKES

One week

HIGHLIGHTS

Wine tasting

Romanesque architecture on Camino de Santiago.

Rio Oja Valley

San Millán de la Cogolla - World Heritage Site 13th Century Yuso and Suso Monasteries.

San Vicente de Sonsierra - Church of True Cross.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

La Rioja is a good place to go for the inexperienced cyclist, with little traffic and easy-going terrain.

Hotels in La Rioja

Cruise the Liffey

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No trip to Ireland's resplendent capital is complete without a trip along its iconic river. So much has changed in recent years for this tiger economy of the Eurozone, and nowhere is the transformation better exemplified than along the shores of the Liffey. It was not so long ago that Dubliners referred to their river as 'the slime' and those who walked near it could not help but notice its special aroma. Much effort and money has been put in it to changing this and, as people started to return to living by the water's edge, the river has improved markedly.

Now proud of its river, the city offers cruises through this most magnificent of urban landscapes. Old and new sit side-by-side, offering up a wonderful mix of historical buildings and stunning new architecture. The downstream journey takes you beneath the world famous Ha'penny Bridge while the commentator waxes lyrical on Dublin's past, taking you on a journey through time, from before the Viking invasion to the point where Cromwell first landed through to the present day.

There are great sights to be seen along the way, most notably Trinity College and the Spire in O'Connell Street. However Dublin does not have a waterfront to rival that of London or Paris. To get the full benefit of what the river has to offer, a cruise should form part of a wider walking tour. Using Fleet Street and Abbey Street as your southern and northern boundaries you can cross the Liffey several times and get a most rewarding view of this wonderful city and its fabled river.

HOW

By boat

WHEN TO GO

River cruises operate from Easter to September.

TIME IT TAKES

45 minutes on the water but allow a full day to explore the river and its environs.

HIGHLIGHTS

A stroll through Trinity College, O'Connell Bridge - a world-class structure.

The nearby fish, fruit and vegetable markets - great for people watching.

Dublin Castle - a short walk south from Grattan Bridge.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

The Liffey is subject to high tidal variation. This can affect the route of the river trip and in some instances lead to canceliatior, so check before you set out.

Hotels in Dublin